Radial Arm Saw not cutting well

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In addition to all the other excellent suggestions, check the brushes in the motor.
I replaced all extension cords in my shop with 10 ga cords years ago so I never have to worry about what's plugged in where.
gwidman
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Gwidman wrote:

Burned or worn brushes or broken brush springs could explain the motor behavior but that may be just part of the problem. Simple enough to just replace brushes, assuming it is a brush type motor.
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I could be wrong here and you seem to be an expert concerning RAS's but um I have not seen one that uses brushes. The only RAS motor that I have seen use induction motors, not universal motors.
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You are. PowerKraft (Wards) saws did. 20K motors with an aux routing spindle. Not only that, had the switch in the hand grip intead of up on the beam. Mine's still crosscutting, but I quit ripping on it when I bought the table saw.
The described malfunction smells like capacitor or inertial switch, though, which would indicate an induction motor.
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Well I should have said, that most are induction and that ones with brushes were an exception. I am with you on the thoughts of what may be wrong. Motors with brushes are probably about as rare as TS with the flexible shaft drive. They are out there but not the norm. Totally discounting however the knot head on "Woodworking" that thinks his Sliding CMS is a RAS.
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George wrote:

Yep, Wards used universal motors. But I have several older fractional motors that use brushes. Some motor types in addition to universal motors use brushes, and bad brushes in one of my fractional motors (1/2hp I think) produced much the same symptom (one really messed up brush and spring contact). Burned start switch (inertial switch) contacts produce slow or no starting, but once started have no effect on power.
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Burned start switch (inertial

How about if they do if they don't cut the windings in?
Those "older" motors wouldn't be RI would they? Seems the ancient DeWalt up north has one.
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George wrote:

Don't know what you are saying. If the contacts are poor the start winding isn't energized, so it doesn't start (without help), but once the motor starts turning the winding is not energized if the centrifugal mechanism is working.

I assume they are RI motors.

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Could be dull blade, backwards blade, blade not tight, bearings dry and tight, brush motor with worn brushes, wrong voltage. You need to check each item out to eliminate them.

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RogWin54 wrote:

Sounds to me like the saw is wired for 220 volts and you have it connected to 110. Check with your father-in-law about the circuit he had it connected to or if he had the same problem. It may have been wired for 220 before he got it, expecially if he got it used.
Good luck.
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On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 00:00:42 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@spam.invalid (RogWin54) wrote:

So what are the chances we're ever going to learn what the problem was and how you solved it?
--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
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