Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.
It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough tuning.
I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that it has been ground
in a slight arc across the cutting edge as opposed to a 90 degree cut. Is
this normal for these planes? I've seen some planes with a curved blade
before but wondering what effect it will have if I grind straight across.
2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is chipped in
quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a word??) is not a
viable option as is trying to do that myself. What might be a good
alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy paint. Any ideas?
A slight camber on the iron is useful for correcting out of square
conditions and it keeps the corners from leaving tracks. By slight we're
talking about 1/64" at the ends as compared to the middle.
Personally, for a "user" vs. a decoration I wouldn't bother with fixing the
Japanning... but that's me.
Thanx John - Actually I agree about the japanning. I'll just clean it up and
The iron isn't rounded at the corners, it's a smooth arc from side to side.
I'll grind it square and round the corners as I usually do. Just wasn't
familiar with this plane and wanted to be sure the arc wasn't a design
It's called "camber" and it is a design function on a jointer plane. The
idea is that you can adjust an out of square edge by the position of the
plane rather than by having to tilt the plane or adjust the iron.
I've got one of my jack planes set up with a a slight arc. I find it useful
for taking off lots of wood in a hurry, while the reduced effective width of
cut lowers resistance. Can't imagine ever wanting to do that to a jointer
I bought and old mid teens Cor. Stanley 607 on ebay and cleaned it up with 1
part citric acid mixed with to parts water by volume. It's a great rust
remover. I use it on all the old tools I pick up that have rust on them.
Citric acid comes in a powder from the local beer or wine homebrewing store.
I scrub with a green pad and let it soak some more. Repeat until rust is
gone. I was tempted to re-japan with this stuff
but rust hasn't really come back and like John's mine is a user.
My 1927 edition of Henley's Formulas For Home and Workshop has this
for Japan Black.
12 oz amber
This is the stumbling block - the price of amber resin must have gone
up quite a bit, relatively, in the 80+ years since the book was
2 oz asphaltum
Here's a liquid version, but Henley's is probably referring to the
Fuse by heat and add 1/2 pint boiled linseed oil and 2 oz rosin.
When cooling, add 16 oz of oil of turpentine.
One day I'll make some. Sometimes I'd rather spend the same amount of
money (and not put a price on my time) just to do something new that's
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