Question about Blum Hinges

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See Picture at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking 4 doors on bottom of cabinet, 2 on the outside are inset with a 1/16" reveal the 2 middle doors need to be overlay by 3/8 to 1/2" to cover the divider in order to support shelf. I have bored (35mm) holes 7/8 of an inch from edge and 4" from top and bottom. I'm using 107 degree snap on blum hinges but having a problem determining mounting plate. Any ideas?
Thanks, Rich
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I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the edge. Is that what the instructions call for?
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The reason I ask this question is that these Euro style hinges typically have to be located a specific distance from the edge. Too far from the edge and you cannot open the door. Because there are almost countless variations and over lay options available with these style hinges it is going to be difficult to suggest how the hinge should be mounted other than what the instructions dictate. Typically you have the opportunity to mount anywhere you wan,t up and down, but location from the edge of the door is quite critical.
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Leon wrote:

mount or inset and overlay position. It's been awhile since I have done cab doors so I could be wrong.
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Leon wrote:

except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope not or I will be building these doors over and that would just suck!!!!
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I have probably drilled 3 or 4 hundred holes for these style hinges and in my particular case the distance from the edge was always 1/8" Typically the mechanics and or mounting plate of the hinge determine the amount of over lay. If you know the model number of that particular Blum hinge you should be able to find the particulars.
See if this helps but as it looks you may need to get different mounting plates to suite you over lay needs.
http://wwhardware.com/media/products/apcharts/blum107cliptop.pdf
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Leon wrote:

1/8" recess + (1 3/8" diameter [35 mm] cup /2) = 13/16" edge of door to center of cup.
7/8" to the center of the cup ain't that far off.
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Typically the measurement for these type hinges are from the edge of the door to the edge of the hole, not the center of the hole.
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Leon wrote:

frame construction and it always worked for me. This is my first inset and small overlay job. I was told that it works for inset too. It's all about the mounting plate. All bets are off when dealing with angled cab doors though. Sorry for the misunderstanding and how I worded it.
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Leon wrote:

The cup hole are a lot easier to drill when you have the forstner bit's center marked. It's hard to line up the rim of the bit.
Ya'oughta try it! ;-)
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Nova wrote:

No sheet, anyways it all worked out I installed the doors today and all I needed was an assortment of 0 to 9mm spacer mounting brackets. My local hardwood supplier gave me the brackets so no big deal or loss. I think he was the one that told me 7/8" was the measurement in the first place. Next time I will pay more attention to the Blum PDF.
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Nova wrote:

writing. Geeeez isnt 13/16 - 1/16 from being 7/8's These so called experts really think I bored a hole 7/8's from the edge? The side of the stile is 2-1/4 in total. How would I do that?
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"Rich" wrote

Go figure ...could it possibly be because the not "so called expert" who requested help in the first place did a piss poor job of saying what he meant?
Naaaa ...
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Swingman wrote:

reason that you could not bore a 35mm hole 7/8" from the edge unless your stile was 3" or more. Oh well sorry for the confusion.
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Leon wrote:

Ok here's the deal, the 7/8" is to the center of the bore making it about an 1/8 from the edge. I hope this clears up the misunderstanding.
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"Rich" wrote

Well, you "could" plug the present holes and drill new ones. If you cut plugs that fit well, glue them and sand them down, they shouldn't show with the white paint finish. <G> But, I think the prescribed distance from the edge is more like 1/8" to maybe 3/8".
Max
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Somebody wrote:

I have not been following this thread closely, but the above got my attention.
If the interior surface is actually going to be painted, "plug" the existing holes with epoxy thickened wity micro-balloons.
Fill the hole about 1/6-1/8 proud, then allow to cure for a couple of days.
Sand flush, redrill 35mm holes and paint.
Do a decent paint job and you will never see the repair.
If this is a natural finish, all bets are off.
Lew
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Max wrote:

it about 1/8" from the edge.
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Rich wrote:

the 35mm cup hole 7/8" from center to edge, leaving about an 1/8"from hole to edge. I'm not that stupid besides if the stile is 2-1/4" how would a 7/8" hole fit if it was from the edge? Anyway guess I'll figure this one on my own and I'm sure getting the right mounting plate starting from the 0 to the 9mm will solve my problem. Only one got it right and that was Nova!
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"Rich" wrote

Wrong ... The boring distance for a euro style hinge is ALWAYS measured from the edge of the cup to the edge of the door frame.
There are tables in every package for determining/changing the overlay/inset using this particular distance "B". Check the Blum site for a pdf for each type of hinge.
No one who does this more than once attempts to measure from the "center of the cup" ... to do so is sheer idiocy.
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