Preserving cross-grain slab

Expert workers of wood --

I work at a YMCA summer camp and in preparation for expanding the size of our dining hall, we had to cut down a 100 year old black walnut tree. From the stump that was removed, I cut a slab directly across the grain that is 6" thick and a whopping 55" in diameter.

I would like to preserve this slab and finish one side so that I can document the history of the camp (it's about 100 years old as well) in the annual rings. (I think I've seen this idea once at a National Park as a kid.) I'm obviously worried that the slab will crack into several pieces or crack so much as to be unappealing.

A search of google shows that questions along this line have been asked and answered in the past. Some links to threads posted in this group are (after a search on slab):

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?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&safe=off&threadm=akihgr%24riu%241%40bob.news.rcn.net&rnum=16&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dslab%2B%2Bgroup:rec.woodworking%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26group%3Drec.woodworking%26safe%3Doff%26start%3D10%26sa%3DNDoes anyone in the group have any direct experience with a project like this? Does anyone who posted a question about such a project have any report about whether the slab checked and how badly?

I have been applying pentacryl to the slab on both sides. I may try to enclose the slab in a plastic bag of some nature to slow down the rate at which the wood will dry. Is it a bad thing if the wood freezes before it's dry? Storing it inside might be hard since it's relatively big and really heavy.

Can anyone tell me if bolting a 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick piece of aluminum (say 40" dia) to the back of the slab is a bad idea? The idea is that the plate would mechanically constrain the slab and keep it from splitting.

There is a beautiful table pictured here:

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seems like this slab is a cross-grain cut and it doesn't exhibit any checking. What's the secret?

Cheers,

Matt

Reply to
Matt Poese
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What do you feed your walnuts, that they reached a 55" diameter in only 100 years ?

IMHO, you're wanting the PEG-1000 route.

Fortunately walnut butts are one of the better timbers for doing this.

Popped up last week too.

My best so far is 2' diameter without checking (beech). It was a 2" thick slab and has about 1/2" of surface warp to it so far (3 years)

If you try to restrain the slab, it's going to check rather than warping. For aluminium, it may even buckle the plate.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

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