I made several pieces of furniture, but only of close grain wood. Now I
am making dresser of red oak, and I will need some sort of grain filler,
because grain looks so rough. I went to Home Depot, but I couldn't find
any, and people in Depot didn't know what I am talking about.
Can anybody give me any idea what company makes it, and brand name of
any? And any instruction how to use it: before staining, or after
Best stuff I've used on oak comes from Compliant Spray Systems. It's a
Enduro product and dries clear, so as not to muck up the grain. Dries
fast and goes a loooong way, so 1 QT is enough for many projects. It
will probably dry out before you can use it all. :) Call them -- they
are great people to deal with.
I doubt that brand makes much difference as the
standard filler is pretty much the same stuff.
You may need to find a real finishing supply
store, or a place that sells fine hardwoods for
furniture. You can stain before, after or both
before and after filling, use a contrasting stain
with a contrasting color of filler, etc. Sounds
like you need to read a book on finishing to get
an idea of how to achieve the look you want or
even to select a look. If all you want to do is
fill the wood then use clear filler and no stain.
I followed George Cafthon suggestion. I found in my neighborhood kitchen
cabinet shop, and I went there to see if they would help me. I am 76 y
old and I am making some furniture pieces as a hobby, so to spend $17
for grain filler just for one, or two pieces is a little too much for
Shop owner - seeing old man in need - decided to help me. He asked me if
I have clear sanding sealer - and I have - so he gave me some powder
with instruction to put first stain, after it dries, put one coat of
sealer, after it dries, mix some this powder with sending sealer to make
paste , and with rubber spatula - he gave me - fill all the grain.
Leave it to dry over night, and next day sand it with 220 sandpaper, and
put 2-3 coats of polyurethane.
Tanks, again everybody.
I use Water Borne stains therefore I use WB fillers. I sand to 150 grit. I
mix a bit of stain into the filler, apply and let dry. Sand with 180, and
then apply the stain over the whole thing. Let dry half an hour and then
apply the top coat. There ones I use are made by Fuhr. Cheers, JG
Casey Rafa wrote:
I like Behlens because it is plain color (nearly white) and I can mix in
stain, test a piece, and get exactly the color I want. I live in the
boonies and couldn't find any around here, even at the paint stores, so I
finally sent off. Can't remember to who, but it warn't cheap.
In an earlier life I used to do quite a bit of antique furniture refinishing
and used simple plaster of paris to fill the grain then go over it with raw
linseed oil which renders it colorless .This works fine for a while and was
used extensively in victorian times as a cheap filler for french polished
The problem with this technique is that over the years the oil leeches into
the wood leaving the white plaster residue in the pores. To solve this
problem is very difficult and due to it being at the very base of the finish
complete stripping is required and thats a good start . Due to this problem
most pieces are left as is, if the problem is mentioned then a knowlegible
dealer will probably the piece just needs a "touchup " . I most cases it is
easier to touchup his secretary than the piece of furniture.
As mentioned by Mr Moody I too have some of Behlens pore filler I think it
is called porolac or similar . I have used it on pieces that I have french
polished through the years. As I now shoot laquer finishes I am not sure of
its effect on my final finishes as it contains linseed oil and generally
laquer and any kind of oil do not live together very well .The result is a
feature called "fisheye"
One other note coloring the filler with stain similar to the color of the
stained wood is fine in my estimation but generally leaves the piece
looking flat .many people like antique pieces because how they look .To get
this look I use a black filler and stain a little lighter to compensate for
the general darkening caused by the filler . The reason I use black filler
is because the pores in old pieces are also filled with black filler , why
black filler ? years and years of exposure to coal and wool smoke and dust
and then being trapped by a fresh coat of wax every now and then ...mjh
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