I bought a truck load of Penn cherry for my kitchen cabinets. The
boards are 4/4 rough, primary 10' long 5-10" wide. What's the best way
to plan them? I have Delta 13" benchtop finishing planner and 6"
stationary jointer. I do not see how I can manage run board through
jointer as they are long and heavy. Is there way to plan boards without
running them through jointer?
You can make a jig that allows a router to substitute for a jointer. This
will become very tedious in a hurry.
When you are running it through the planer, the down face should be flat
which is usually done on a jointer. If it isn't flat, bad things can
(for Tom and Dave)
Glad you liked it. I build one in an afternoon and it works great. BTW,
I did a shortcut by using half of a bi-fold door for the sled
foundation. It's essentially a torsion box, so it's lighter than Rust's
model, and it's the perfect size already (12" x 8'). In addition, they
can be had for pennies at any salvage mart (I got mine for free at a
Habitat ReSale store, they were throwing them away).
I combine Rust's jig with longer infeed/outfeed tables to eliminate
snipe, and the jointer's good to go.
Can you rough size them first? Then John Paul Jones them? I would rip
them to rough size on my band saw, Cross cut to rough size, Face Joint,
Face plane, Edge Joint then Rip. I'm of course assuming that your
maching them down to 2 inch and ~ 3 inch stock for face frames and door
rail and styles.
And for the bandsaw challenged, a circular saw, if saw, handsaw etc. etc.
will allow you to crosscut them to rough length... allow a couple of inches
on each end for snipe or mis-measurement.
Now what Don said. Sorta. The order of operations is OK, but different
strokes for different folks.
I've been known to face joint, use that face referenced against the jointer
fence to joint one edge square to the face (or at an angle as needed).
One can then either plane them first and then rip (jointed edge against the
fence). Or if the mood strikes, rip them the same way then plane them to
final thickness, (when you do all this, try to take relatively equal amounts
from each face... failure to do so could aggravate the natural of the wood.
This in turn can result in your nicely milled stock winding up with a cup,
bow, twist or any permutations thereof! DAMHIKT!
It is also best IMHO, to use the pieces (assemble) as soon as possible after
Maker of Fine Sawdust and Thin Shavings
usually you need to add at least 5" or more to remove snipe. there's
more than 2" of snipe from your typical planer, IF it snipes. best bet
is to measure the amount of snipe at each end and add length as necessary.
For many years I have simply run the rough stock through the planer flipping
the board each time. This works if the boards are straight and flat.
Or you can rip the boards to fit the jointer and reglue them.
I also do that, and it is usually good enough, but it is never really flat.
That shows up on glue-ups, and especially on dovetails. They simply don't
fit; while if you face joint them they are perfect.
I prefer to try to rip any boards I am going to glue up to no more
than four inches or so wide, then they will fit on the jointer then
planer and clean up quicker. I used to rough plane full width first
and lost a lot of wood that would not clean up flat. I also like to
cut to rough length so that I have shorter boards to work on the
jointer. Some waste here due to snipe allowance but a lot easier to
This despite the fact I have a good jointer( DJ-15) and a good planer
For you, the best way would have been to have the supplier surface at
least one side.
Too late to do that now but you could haul them off to a local place and
have them done. Cost maybe $0.10 /bd.ft. Alternatively, rough cut them
to size, surface one side with your joiner then use the thickness
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Is there any reason you'd need many boards much longer than 3-4 feet
or so for cabinets? Perhaps you could rough cut them to lenght before
jointing, you wood probably have greater usable thickness by doing so
I am building cabinets in my own workshop and assembling them right in
kitchen. Instead of building modular individual cabinets I build entire
side 8' long consisting of several cabinets. The cabinets are divided
by 3/4" plywood sides. Bottom and top of cabinets are also single 3/4"
8' long plywood panels dadoed to accept vertical sides. Back is 1/2"
also single plywood panel. I find this approach allows me building the
whole kitchen side of cabinets more solid all leveled. First I assemble
case using screws. When everything is built and trimmed, I will
disassemble all panels, finish with polyurethane and then glue and
screw again. Having said this I would like to build one single face
frame for all cabinets. It means I need horizontal frame boards be 8'
long. Face frame is 1 1/2" wide.
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