Planing the end grain of a pencil sized tree core

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Got a microtome? Or a sharp knife or chisel? Razor blade?
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 6:27:03 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:

Is a microtome a place where really short people a buried?
Oh wait...that's not a b. ;-)
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On 6/12/2016 6:26 AM, dadiOH wrote:

A SHARP hand plane, adjusted to take light shavings, will work very well. To avoid breakage, I'd make a jig to support the core. Dado a slot as wide as the core in a board, but shallower, with an end stop, to hold the core in place as you plane off the protruding top. Or build up a slot along a core by tacking slightly thinner strips of wood alongside.
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 7:55:28 AM UTC-5, Larry Kraus wrote:

Is getting/having more than one core sample possible? I'd try Larry's (ver y sharp plane, etal.) suggestion and, maybe, wet one sample... see if that softens the fibers for better/best/easier planing. Slow, not fast, planin g strokes?
If the log/tree has some significant age to it, I'd like to see a pic of th e log/tree/snag. I enjoy "visiting" old grandpa trees/snags and the like. When I come across old magestic(?) trees, I sometimes imagine what storie s/life they could tell or have experienced.
Sonny
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 10:12:58 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:

t softens the fibers for better/best/easier planing. Slow, not fast, plan ing strokes?

e. When I come across old magestic(?) trees, I sometimes imagine what stor ies/life they could tell or have experienced.

Here is a 250+ Sugar Maple tree https://onedrive.live.com/redir?residz0E1BB07CBA3080 !223112&authkey=! ABK_ci76c3PJGC0&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG
A 239 year old live oak https://onedrive.live.com/redir?residz0E1BB07CBA3080 !223111&authkey=! ANIB53UnGZotD0g&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG
A 300+ year old Green Ash https://onedrive.live.com/redir?residz0E1BB07CBA3080 !223110&authkey=! APWdyhw71fICx6Q&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG
And a 225 year old Eastern Red Cedar https://onedrive.live.com/redir?residz0E1BB07CBA3080 !223113&authkey=! ACMVRPrFKLrHQH0&v=3&ithint=photo%2cJPG
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 8:55:28 AM UTC-4, Larry Kraus wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion. Do you have any recommendations for a brand or type or hand plane I should use?
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On 6/11/2016 10:12 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I would try a a quality card scraper before I'd try a hand plane.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&pA069
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Have you sharpened your core sampler lately. Hone its cutting surface.
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Three things I'd try: Bore a hole in a wood scrap, put the stick in and wedge it, and fill with paraffin wax. Then, with a heavy workbench vise, you can hold it still for a swipe or two with a sharp plane. Low-angle (block) plane would be suitable, maybe a final pass or three with a card scraper. Hole, wedge, wax again, only this time make a crosscut pass with a steel plywood blade in a table saw. Hole, wedge, wax again, only this time make a light pass with a straight carbide router bit.
Planing a loose knot is a close approximation to the task you have ahead of you; making it a NOT-loose knot would be a high priority.
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 11:57:03 AM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:

This sounds like instructions for planing the end of his "stick", like the end grain of a dowel. Am I thinking correctly?
I think he wants to plane along the length of the stick, which is a core sample, which the end grain is along its length, is perpendicular to the length.
Sonny
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 1:57:12 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:

That's correct. Wit3rd, are you thinking of encasing the core in wax and then shaving off small sections with a planner?
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Ah, the LENGTH. In that case, forget the microtome et al, a hand plane will do the job but it must be sharp. For what you want, I'd think a block plane would be the thing, just rig some way of keeping the core immobile.
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 5:24:22 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:

Ok thanks, i'll look into that.
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 10:57:12 AM UTC-7, Sonny wrote:

AH, a light dawns. I'd still recommend the same thing, but for a 16" long item, you get the hole by grooving two boards and fastening 'em around the stick.
Maybe a bead of hotmelt glue or construction adhesive would be better than wax...
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On Sat, 11 Jun 2016 20:12:01 -0700 (PDT) snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

stabilize the wood with acrylic resin in a vacuum pot then slice it
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On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 3:47:08 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:

I've never heard of a vacuum pot before. Is that needed to stabilize the wood in resin?
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On Sun, 12 Jun 2016 12:59:14 -0700 (PDT) snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

it forces the resin in to the wood
plenty of videos
of course you can diy a vacuum rig
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