Ok, well I finally decided to use my old benchtop Delta radial-arm drill press [should I say "RADP" in this forum :-) ]
I don't guess many people have one of these, but it could have been done with a regular drill press if one altered the table by machining the bottom flat with a milling machine to accommodate a router base.
This old drill press I have was given to me by a customer who was an amateur woodworker while I was restoring his garage after a fire in 1985. It only had smoke damage and I replaced the chuck with a Jacobs. So not much money spent so far.
The drill press had too little room under the table for my router, so I machined a piece of thick aluminum (1/2") and 6" wide to extend the router past the table. The router base is mounted under this extension. Of course, the pin is held by the drill chuck, which extended out to meet the router bit. On top of it all is a plywood top.
No need for details, as it took a fair amount of drilling and tapping and some trial and error.
It works great; it does what I need to do. The problem of having to raise the router to cut in smaller increments is a pain, but this is only with thicker lumber. Unfortunately, all of my cuts will be thicker stuff. If I cut in one pass, it shears off the parts with an end-grain, so I gotta do more and smaller passes. Dust collection is a real problem... face mask time.
A pin router is the only way I can cut in increments and quit eating up bearings on router bits. I recommend the use of downward spiraling mortising bits and use no less than 1/2" stuff so that nothing snaps off or bends. Putting a thin sacrificial spacer between the workpiece and pattern is necessary. A thicker pattern is a happy pattern (3/8-1/2). When you make the hole in the drill press table, cut it large enough to let the collet through, enabling one to use shorter bits if necessary.
By dropping the router out of this setup, you still have your drill press to use as you wish, so long as you don't move the table.
Hope this helps someone. woodstuff