Picture clips for frames

I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2 steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X 1/2 material?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Keith Nuttle said:

Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
Greg G.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Greg G. wrote:

materials are a lot less than buying premade items. Besides I have not seen what I need for sale.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Keith Nuttle wrote:

While I understand what you're saying, she'd have to be amazingly prolific for framing points at 10 bucks/2500, offset clips at $5/100, or turnbuttons at $15/1000 to put you in the poorhouse.
Take a look through "fitting equipment" and "framing and fitting guns" at http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Framing-and-Matting/Framing-Hardware-and-Equipment.htm .
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
J. Clarke wrote:

http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Framing-and-Matting/Framing-Hardware-and-Equipment.htm .

piece of screen molding. (This is the basic system, but changes as I get new router bits. ) The stretchers are made from standard 1" X 2" furring strips that are carefully selected for quality (Lowes Loves me) My wife then stretches her own canvas.
Framing points will not work for this type of frame and stretcher system. The offset clips are either to much off set, not enough off set, or to short. If I could find the turnbottons at that price they would be a better, and if they were long enough to reach from the frame and cover the stretcher.
The reason that I was making them was I could not find any thing that provided the function at the cost.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Keith Nuttle wrote:

When I was framing stretcher mounted stuff there used to be some sort of wire clip for the purpose. Worked but gimmicky and hard to find so I always just drove brads diagonally into the frame from near the stretcher edge.
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Keith Nuttle wrote:

The price I mentioned on the 1" turnbuttons is the going price at Jerry's Art-A-Rama, a national chain, so finding them shouldn't be too difficult--they'll ship to you for an additional 8 bucks shipping (the 8 bucks is per order, not per item) . That price by the way is without screws--the screws are another 8 bucks/1000.
I'm surprised that Harbor Fright doesn't have a "storehouse" package of them for 10 bucks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Keith Nuttle said:

I feel your pain. Wasn't trying to be a smartarse, but have a friend who owns a frame shop and some of the bulk retaining clips cost him pennies each. Around here, the BORGs get $6-7 for a strip of aluminum.
Obviously, a $500 anvil cutter is out of the question as well. :)
I've used aviation snips to cut 1/16" aluminum. Cheap versions can be bought for less than $10US. Just make sure the material is seated deep in the jaws and whack away. If it leaves a bit of a bend at the end, just lay it on a flat surface and whack it with a hammer - it'll straighten right out. Make sure you get a pair that has leverage and not a light duty version. Here is a Harbor Freight model:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber719
If you have a bandsaw, make up a jig out of an old 2x4 and cut the pieces. A fine toothed wood blade will cut aluminum that thin with no problem. I wouldn't try it with a 3TPI blade, however.
FWIW,
Greg G.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:04:40 -0500, the infamous Greg

Why not switch to glass pushpoints? Cheap, premade, available everywhere, secure. <shrug>
http://www.swisco.com/1lb-Wood-Window-Push-Points/pd/Glazing-Springs_Points/57-104 (Amazon.com product link shortened)
Add a pushpoint plier and you're in it for a lifetime supply for a total of about $35. And you (Keith) will save ten minutes per frame, easy.
-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Something that thin could easily be cut by an angle grinder. Or a bandsaw. Or a chop saw with an abrasive blade.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Keith Nuttle wrote:

Middle of the page:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGEa3&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEMa9-2883
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Morris Dovey wrote:

I'd also suggest buying 0.0630" x 1.25" x 96" stock and cutting every 1/2".
A simple free-standing infeed table and a stop on the outfeed side would allow cutting ~191 pieces in less than 5 minutes from one 8' piece of steel or aluminum stock. :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If its aluminum you can use any wood blade. I would probably make a little jig to sandwich it between two pieces of wood and do it on a cutoff saw. Maybe a few at a time, like cut the 3' into 3 12" pieces then do cutoff.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Cold Chisel?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You might have some luck with a Harbor Freight "mini chop saw". It runs around $30, and replacement blades are 3 for $10. I've cut through nickel silver and brass HO scale (.100" tall) rail with little difficulties. However, it's not easy to cut through heavy stuff.
Puckdropper
--
.sig file not found. Please enter manually.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

This may do the job. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber8413
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.