Painting my vice-what kind of paint?

I am building my workbench and have purchased a Record quick release vice. The vice is a bit scratched and I would like to paint it black instead of the Record blue. Can someone tell me how I should go about this? What kind of paint should I use? Can I just paint over the old paint or do I have to prepare the surface in some way? Thank you for the help!
Bob
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snipped-for-privacy@operamail.com says...

Sorry Bob... vices are almost always painted bright glossy red.
But you can paint your vise a nice flat black with some rustoleum or krylon. Sandblast the old paint off and get a good "tooth" for the new paint to adhere. Clean with some alcohol, Prime- Use the same primer as the paint you have, DO NOT CROSS BRANDS, they are NOT ALWAYS COMPATABLE (DAMHIKT), paint. Oh- mask off the jaws. Paint on the inside of the jaws comes off at the worst possible time on the most expensive possible wood.
vic
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Tue, Apr 20, 2004, 12:11pm (EDT-3) snipped-for-privacy@operamail.com (Bob) <snip> how I should go about this?
Brush. Or spray. Your choice. Check the label on the can.
What kind of paint should I use?
Oil based paint. Go to a paint store and look at different brands, then make a choice. Or, ask the paint store guy. Note I said paint STORE, I didn't say Home Depot, Lowes, or anything similar.
Can I just paint over the old paint or do I have to prepare the surface in some way?
Read the can label.
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snipped-for-privacy@operamail.com says...

You know, I had the same dilemma, only in reverse. I have a Jorgenson woodworking vise (originally black), and wanted it blue.
The way I did it was by soaking the vise in 6 gallons of gasoline for a full day. After most of the paint dissolved in the gas, I hung the vise to a dead tree I have in the back yard. Then I lit the vise on fire.
The rest of the paint came off in a heartbeat.
Unfortunately, besides removing my eyebrows and moustache, the burning gas left a black residue on the vise. It was easily removed by soaking in gas for a couple of days.
7 days and 42 gallons of gas later, she's finally ready for paint. LOML says I can spend the $12,000 for that spray booth I always wanted. She figures we'll be ahead in the long run just on the doctor bills alone.
Good luck Bob!
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On 20 Apr 2004 12:11:31 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@operamail.com (Bob) wrote:

Machine tool paint. Hard to find, but it's tough as nails and often available in small cans. Comes in colours like "Bridgeport Grey", "Myford Blue" and the like, but you should find black and primaries too. Better grades may be an epoxy.
Floor paint works well too. If I ever mix any epoxy floor paint (which costs a fortune in workshop quantities) I use up any leftovers on things like vices or heavy workshop ironwork.
Just don't use Hammerite or Smoothrite. Too hard and stiff, not sticky enough - flakes off under any impact.
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Smert' spamionam

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Rustoleum works well. Try a small roller instead of a brush (or spray can).

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Bob wrote:

Holy Cow Bob, you've gotten a spectrum of answers to this question. My two cents - scruff the surface with a 3M pad to develop a little tooth for the new paint. Obviously, thoughougly clean any dirt, grease, oil, or other contaminants.
If you want to get picky you can feather out the scratches with a little 400 grit sandpaper. Prime any bare metal areas and then spray it with any decent emamel spray paint. Contrary to what you may have read, you most certainly can go to Home Depot or Ace Hardware or any other retail outlet and buy a common spray enamel. Actually, Ace Hardware sells a pretty decent line of enamel paint under their own label and it's almost twice the size of the brand name paints for the same price or less. I've used it a lot and it's as good as any other on the shelves. I really don't have any experience with some of the machine paints that some of the folks have suggested so I won't comment on those, however if you want to give it a nice base coat/clear coat paint job, I'm happy to offer more advice. Have you considered pin stipes...
A note of caution if you go the route of using Rustoleum as was mentioned by one poster, just be aware that it dries very slowly. Consider putting a big light right over it to warm it and encourage it to dry faster.
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Bob, You have way to much time on your hands! Dave

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my vice gets a fresh coat of paint whenever i use it to hold something im painting. right now it would be best described as red, with blue and white spots <g>
randy

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It's situations like this that make me I knew of a place to get something powder-coated.
todd
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yellow pages. if none listed, call a speed shop and ask where they get their stuff done.
failing that, you can buy the setup at harbor freight pretty cheaply.
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I have found Hammerlite spray paint to be FAR superior to rustoleum or krylon for a tough finish. A touch of surface rust makes it stick even better. Give it a try, you won't be dissapointed.

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