Oak Molding

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How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?
What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be?
Do I pre-drill the oak molding?
(I do not have a nail-gun).
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How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?
What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be?
Do I pre-drill the oak molding? (If "Yes", should the holes be smaller than, larger than, or the same diameter as the nails?
(I don't have a nail-gun and I wouldn't buy one -- or a brad-nailer -- plus a compressor for such a small project).
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Borrow one?
They really do make installing trim *much* easier. Ask around. You may have a friend, neighbor, or colleague who has one.
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I did lots of trim with a hammer and nails for many years. For that little job the hassle of a nail gun is far too big. You should have a stud finder though. I would drill small holes in oak as it will split on you when you hand nail it, especially if it was stored in a heated store for a few months or years.
Don't listen to the known trolls here and believe me there is a lot of them.
-----------------------
"Doug Miller" wrote in message wrote:

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wrote in message
How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?
What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be?
Do I pre-drill the oak molding? (If "Yes", should the holes be smaller than, larger than, or the same diameter as the nails?
(I don't have a nail-gun and I wouldn't buy one -- or a brad-nailer -- plus a compressor for such a small project).
====== Did you actually want to attach it to drywall and not the wooden studs behind it?
Use some PL-100 (or other number )adhesive. Clean up with Varsol equivalent or paint thinner when done before too hard.
If that is not what you mean drill very fine holes in the oak and use almost headless pin nails long enough to go through your 3/4" oak + 1/2" drywall and into the stud at least 3/4". (2 - 2-1/4") Use a stud finder, mark your studs, drill your trim on the angle of the "meat" of your trim, and then hammer your nails close to the surface and finish with a nail set so you don't create too much hammerage on your wood.
Sorry about this group full of bad trolls and a lot of sock puppets attempting to make you think a conversation is going on between them with a consensus is happening. It's a problem for newbies and done elsewhere too.
--
Eric


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On 6/11/11 7:14 PM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Assuming it's standard quarter round and not some giant stuff, standard 8d or even 10d finish nails with a hammer would do fine. Assuming this is on a wall, one nail per stud will do the trick. If it's on the floor next to the wall like over hardwood flooring, you can nail down into the floor, as well. Pre-drilling oak is never a bad idea and help to keep from bending nails when hand hammering. Use a nail set to countersink the nail as deep as the width of the head and fill the holes with stainable or pre-colored putty.
You could also use trim screws. They are thin with a very small head, usually with a square drive recess. Same thing with the nail, countersink and fill the holes.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy.

Metal, about "yea" long.

Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them.
Now the real answers:

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-nailer-stapler-97524.html
Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today, either. This is unusual.)
At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit.
If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for that.
-- The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message wrote:

Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy.

Metal, about "yea" long.

Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them.
Now the real answers:

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-nailer-stapler-97524.html
Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today, either. This is unusual.)
At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit.
If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for that.
==================== Hold on one second!
We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for?
mike
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"m II" wrote in message wrote:

Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy.

Metal, about "yea" long.

Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them.
Now the real answers:

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-nailer-stapler-97524.html
Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today, either. This is unusual.)
At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit.
If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for that.
==================== Hold on one second!
We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for?
mike
==================== Appears to be a simple arithmetic error.
I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak for trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work before would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are many sock puppets here.
--
Eric


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On 6/12/2011 8:34 AM, Eric wrote:

I have done my share of base board and shoe moldings, did this for a builder 10 or years ago. I used a finish nail gun but it was all painted trim.
You mention a pin nailer for oak, is there a pin nail long enough to go through the shoe molding, sheet rock and then the 2x?
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On 6/12/11 9:15 AM, Leon wrote:

This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants to know the best NON nail gun technique.
No, everyone has to get in a pissing match over exactly what the guy *didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk. "Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!"
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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When you got the same person commenting themselves these little newsgroup nuances are always going to rise... well, for the suckers, that is. george
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"Georg Watson" wrote in message wrote:

When you got the same person commenting themselves these little newsgroup nuances are always going to rise... well, for the suckers, that is. george
===== How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock puppets - Lee Michaels - Leon - Lobby Dosser - George Watson - Robatoy - several Mikes used here - Larry Jaques - Doug and Bill and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and your BS is old.
Now fuck off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred** names you have used on that group.
mike
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The molding is not for a baseboard; it sits along the top edge of a granite backsplash.
I located one stud so I measured over 16" to find the next stud. I discovered that the studs are NOT 16" O.C: The distances of the studs are 24", 13" and 21", etc so I did a lot of "test" holes to find the studs.
Considering that nothing else in my condo is "standard" size, this didn't surprise me but it was very frustrating.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote the following:

That helps a lot. I would glue or silicone it in place.
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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On 6/13/11 10:23 AM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

If the piece of trim is nice ans straight, it may be easier to just glue it in pace. Since that is a "wet area," you could use caulk or any other silicone adhesive. There's new new genre of adhesives that are supposed to have very high initial tack and hold tight when material is pressed against it. If you try one of these products, you may get away with no nails at all, or maybe only a couple.

This is not uncommon if there is a window involved. Studs go 16" or 24" apart, until there is a doorway or window, then you have jack studs and kind studs shortening up that distance. Not all stud finders are the same. Find one that has a "deep scan" option and you'll get better results.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
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On 6/13/2011 8:36 AM, m II wrote:

plonk
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Here's another sock puppet to add to your list. Every time you expose them he spawns another new name.
-------------------
"Jim in Milwaukee" wrote in message wrote:

plonk
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It doesn't take long, here, to figure out that so many of these troll types are the same person.
The woodworkers do not care about posting formats, readers or rabble rousing against others.
Most have just killfiltered the ones on your list and the group gets a lot more productive. They all say the same thing back and forth anyway, except for George Watson. He can't ever get a response so he constantly changes his nickname hoping for a pat on the back from somebody that isn't himself.
--------------
"m II" wrote in message How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock puppets - Lee Michaels - Leon - Lobby Dosser - George Watson - Robatoy - several Mikes used here - Larry Jaques - Doug and Bill and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and your BS is old.
Now fuck off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred** names you have used on that group.
mike
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That's the way it works around here. Want a good discussion about the advantages of hand cut dovetails? Just ask how to set up a dovetail jig.
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