Now for something a little different...

This is an instrument panel for my classic wooden cruising sailboat which I just finished and installed a few days ago. It was a tricky bugger to build. Take a look at the slide show:

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The problem was the corner pieces - I didn't have a piece of teak that was thick enough to cut the corners on the square, which would have eased the handling and clamping problem, but I did have some eight-quarter stock that I could use on a 45 degree diagonal to get the radius out of it I needed. Not only that, it had nice curved grain across the width of the piece so that I could curve the grain around the corners, more or less.

I'll describe these in the order I placed the pictures in the Photobucket slideshow, although Photobucket may not show them to you in that order. The site has never been very good at getting that right. Nevertheless, it'll be pretty clear what you're looking at, no matter the order you see them.

The first couple pictures are the finished piece, mounted on the boat. The third one is an assembly picture, after I'd shot the slots with the Festool Domino tool. The last two are after the glue-up, with the back panel in a routed rabbet. By then I'd bandsawed the inner curves and smoothed them on a drill-press-mounted drum sander, but hadn't yet shaped the outer curves. Those I did later by bandsawing outside the line and sanding to the line on a large disk sander. Some router table work finished up the edges.

The straight pieces are sixty-year-old Burma teak, and the corner pieces came out of some stock I've been carrying around with me for about thirty-five years. The back panel might be about that vintage too.

One problem with finishing it was that once you started brushing on the varnish, there was no place to stop until you'd done both the complete outside and the inside as well, about an inch and a half deep into the piece. it was sort of like varnishing a coffee cup while you're holding it by the handle. So one of the pictures shows the cradle that I rigged up to sort of float the thing in mid-air while I was finishing it. I could move it around some by the dowels to position it - turn it over, tilt it up on edge, and so forth.

I like the Festool tools, as you can see by the background in one of the pictures, but there's no way that I could afford to have one of those Dominos in my shop for an occasional job like this. I was lucky enough to be able to borrow it.

Tom

Reply to
tdacon
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Looks nice!

Reply to
Lee Michaels

That is very nice. Excellent job. With work as that, I'd like to see the rest of the boat, as well.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Looks very nice. Good job.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Thank you, Sonny. Here's another PhotoBucket album with a bunch of boat pictures.

Tom

Reply to
tdacon

Thank you, Sonny. Here's another PhotoBucket album with a bunch of boat pictures.

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Tom

Reply to
tdacon

You have a beautiful boat. With all of the bightwork do you ever get it out and under sail.

I have a much smaller boat, and the best place on earth is on a broad reach with a good wind.

Reply to
Keith Nuttle

Thanks Tom. Enjoyed the tour. Very nice, all around. I suppose you made the (steering) wheel and dining table, also.... beautiful!

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Very cool! Many years ago I built a clock with the same basic design. I wish I'd had my domino then. :-)

Reply to
Leon

Obviously a man who does not shy away from challenges.

Well done!

Reply to
Swingman

In earlier days did my own varnishing, but I'm getting too old and creaky to crawl around on deck any more. So I have the exterior varnish done professionally now - two full coats a year.

A boat like that, you have to try hard to minimize repeated work or that's all you'll ever do. So the topsides of the hull and the mast have been sprayed with linear polyurethane (LP). The paint on the hull is now 15 years old, and when I hauled it last year all I had to do to is was buff it out.

Amen to that, brother. Here's a short video of the old girl on a close reach on Port Townsend bay:

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Tom

Reply to
tdacon

The table, yes, thanks, but the wheel came from a Scandanivian company that specializes in them. A guy would grow old in a hurry trying to make a fussy thing like that when you hadn't already developed and tested all the jigs you'd want to use.

Tom

Reply to
tdacon

I was staggered by the precision, and by how easy it was to get the two pieces to register accurately. I used it to do a test section of one end of the box before I committed to the real thing, and it didn't take long to figure it out. I'd have one if I could justify it, but I couldn't unless I did this kind of thing professionally.

Tom

Reply to
tdacon

Gracias, amigo.

Tom

Reply to
tdacon

Wonderful ... worked on wooden three masted schooner in Australia for a too brief period.

She had been used in the whaling industry, sunk, salvaged and put back into service, with an auxiliary diesel, as a supply boat for our offshore seismograph crew.

Nothing more beautiful when under sail, or when anchored down at night under the Southern cross, with the only sound the creaking timbers and slight breeze in her rigging lines.

Back in my high rolling days, when I could afford a sail boat, I viewed sailing like I viewed cocaine ...

I had too much to lose to do either.

Reply to
Swingman

...and people here complain about the price of Festools! ;-)

Nice, very nice!

Reply to
krw

Again great work!

But to be clear, I understood that you just finished the instrument panel for your classic wooden cruising sailboat.

Did you build the boat too?

Reply to
Leon

You just can't appreciate the precision unless you use the tool.

Fortunately I sell a majority of my designs/work.

In the event you use the tool again keep this in mind.

I noticed that you had green tape to mark centers for the mortises. It appears you did that correctly but keep in mind something I did not consider one day...

I found out the hard way that if you don't use the same tape on both reference surfaces that the mortises will not be indexed to each properly.

I found this out by having a piece of tape, not for reference, that was used for another purpose, that was off to the side and the fence was slightly off parallel to the reference surface. I had to plug, and re-cut the mortise.

I also have commented that while you can get away with using the work bench surface and the bottom of the tool as the reference surface for a plate joiner/biscuit cutter, you should not with the Domino.

A slightly warped board or a slight amount of debris under the work piece can throw alignment off considerably. AND this can happen when using the fence as the debris or a warp can do the same. BUT the domino fence is typically narrower than the work and has less effect if the work is warped in a particular direction, crowned up in the middle. And you are less likely to miss removing debris on top of the work, the fence reference surface, than if it was under your work and slightly lifting your work.

Again great work!

Reply to
Leon

Oh, no. The boat was built by a renowned Hong Kong shipyard in 1957, and came into my possession in 1976 as a shabby and somewhat neglected fixer-upper - no serious problems, but not much maintenance either over a number of years. She was designed by Laurent Giles, an English designer. Since Hong Kong was then English, the English designers had developed close relationships with the major Hong Kong yards, so she was built there and I believe was then sailed to the West Coast for, or by, the original owner.

Tom

Reply to
tdacon

Big schooners. Nothing finer.

I hope you don't mind if I quote that observation around Port Townsend's wooden boat community.

Tom

Reply to
tdacon

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