i do not recalll ever watching an entire episode when it aired
but recently i watched one and i had forgottent that he never gave the
details and was pushing selling the plans
it was funny to watch it as he skips over a lot of details
but i did see that he used a spindle into the drill press as a spindle
i ordered a cheap set and i wonder if anyone here uses one of these
on their drill press
does it work well
i will mostly use it for small stuff
the one i ordered does not oscillate but i know they make those
Anytime you put sideways pressure on the spindle you can cause it to
drift off center. Sanding at the end away for the chuck will put
amplified pressure on where the chuck meets the tapered shaft.
It depends on the quality of the drill press as to how much you'll
have to pay for the dance.
Any Craftsman or Tradesman cares about their tools, to keep them
reliable so that when you need it the most it still does what it is
supposed to do. There is a point and time where the tool is sloppy but
still useful for things like you want to do.
Me? I'd like to start er up and see it spinning true.
But after all is said and done, your tool, your money, your choice.
goes without saying but true
if a drill press could not handle some lateral force it would not be useful
think about drilling through wood with knots etc
my table tilts as most do
so again lateral forces
anyone that thinks a small spindle sand attachment is going to ruin a
drill press has incorrect thinking
they are not applying common sense
but common sense seems to be uncommon for many
On Fri, 11 Dec 2015 10:53:46 -0800, Electric Comet
A friend of mine had a wobbly chuck and not due to the internals, but
the fit of the chuck onto the spindle. If yours is pressure fitted and
without a locking set screw from the inside of the chuck to the middle
of the shaft then it will happen to your as well.
Just because something appears do-able doesn't mean its a smart move
to try it.
Where'd you get that info?
Most all quality chucks are mounted on either a Jacobs taper, or Browne
and sharpe taper.
None that I know of use a set screw. The taper is what causes the good
fit, and accurate centering.
On the other hand a chuck that is set to a shaft that has not been
properly cleaned will not seat correctly and will cause all kinds of
problems. Not concentric, wobbly, capable of falling off.
A low quality chuck would use a set screw..
Ok, Guess I am going to have to eat a little dirt here. Years and
years ago I needed to change out a Jacobs chuck. This one really stuck
hard in my head since I was expecting a normal tap off operation. I
darned near ruined the drill press and I for sure ruined the chuck.
The reason it would not come off was because of a screw at the bottom
of the chuck locking in on the shaft. I buggered that screw and ended
up drilling the head clean off, then removed the chuck and then
removed the remaining parts of the screw. As a result that is so burnt
into my mind that I always do a double check.
I don't remember having that same problems since. I have had problems
with chucks not centering properly on the tapered shaft because of the
lateral forces and possibly soft metal or metal fatigue since then.
And as I said, my friends drill press was visibly wobbly, and he
passed away before a replacement chuck was tried. (He was just going
to throw the thing out due to his frustrations with it)
Also I always err on the better safe than sorry type of actions so I
may have jumped the gun on this. I personally do about 50/50 hard
metal to drilling wood on my Drill press.
Yet I have seen loose fits due to wear.
I have never considered Jacobs low end.
But thanks for your comments on my bad. :)
Those are generally for hand drills, which reverse. Not for drill
presses. The JT taper would probably be too heavy for a hand drill.
A threaded chuck is less accurate than a tapered chuck. But on a hand
drill it does not matter much.
Like everything else, there are different levels of quality. I have a
Jacobs chuck that came on a delta drill press, and it has jaws that are
not correctly ground. So they make a drill bit wobble. Jacobs makes
different levels of quality. Today, they have slipped heavily in
quality. I have 2 machinist friends that will only use an old Jacobs,
not a new one, and they both prefer the Albrecht (German chuck).
I have both old, and new Jacobs. The new are quite inferior. I have 2
Chinese chucks that beat out the new Jacobs chuck. That's not good for
the US. Our quality is slipping where we should still rule. I'll blame
the bean counters, but it could be other factors. The price of a Jacobs
is more ( you are paying for US made goods), but the quality is quite
poor for the price.
No, the albrecht have always been fantastic, but the Jacobs, are not up
to the competition any longer. I don't know where you get that I was
even saying that the Albrects were not as good as the older ones. I just
re-read my statement, and it's pretty clear that I was talking about
Sorry about that. Thanks for setting me straight. At 76 I sometimes I
misunderstand. Re-reading your comment makes it all clear now.
IIRC some of the older consumer grade Jacobs weren't all that good either.
Like on cheap drills and such.
I found out early on that spending a bit more on quality tools
can save you a lifetime of aggravation.
I payed about $120 for my Albrecht 1/32-1/2" J2 back in 85. Inflation takes it's
toll. I did buy mine for metal work. I've seen some going for ~ $335 lately so
look around. It maybe overkill for most wood workers.
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