New over old (laminate)

Greetings, Does anyone have experience applying new Formica/Wilsonart laminate over old laminate using waterborne contact cement? I've only done new work and haven't much experience with waterborne contact cement. I assume the old surface should be sanded with a coarse grit to allow the contact cement to grip. I would like to use Wilsonart H2O contact cement Any experiences, good or bad, tips, watchout fors etc. installing new laminate over old (especially using water base cement) would be appreciated. Thanks and regards, Hank

Reply to
Henry St.Pierre
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I have done overlays many times in the past, using just the method that you describe. However, I have always used the solvent based contact cement. I believe in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" method, so I have never tried the water based solvent.

For what its worth, the guy that I use for formica on larger projects told me that he would NOT use water base cement due to warranty problems in the past. He did not elaborate.

Reply to
Robert Allison

- make sure you degrease the surface very well

- make sure the existing laminate is securely bonded to the substrate

Reply to
Fly-by-Night CC

I do countertops for a living^H^H^H^H^support my tool habit. The problem with roughing up (36-grit belt sander) laminate, is that you will get 'tooth' but whatever adhesive you use, won't have an efficient place for the solvent to vent to. Water based contact cement, like its solvent based mate, needs at least one surface to be porous enough to absorb the liquid from the adhesive after flash-off. The bulk will flash off whilst getting it ready before the 'contact', but the usual absorption by the substrate won't be nearly as effective with old laminate in the way... The solvent based cement will do a better job in your application. (Because you can flash off way more solvent, to the point that the cement is dry to the touch, and still have excellent 'stick'. The water based cement doesn't have as long an open time.

On fresh PB or MDF, the water based products work great.

Wilsonart WA3000

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is a PVA adhesive which is not a contact cement but might be a better choice if your heart is set on water based. You apply it to the substrate only and you have a very narrow window to apply your laminate..and then you roll it with all your might/weight. That stuff is phenomenal. 5 gallon is the smallest qty you can buy so maybe calling the distributor in your area might be the way to go. Hopefully they will know who uses that adhesive in your area...and they might sell you what you need.

Good luck!

HTH

r
Reply to
Robatoy

In-home use of a lot of solvent based contact cement can kill a budgie. . .. or so I'm told.

Reply to
Robatoy

Look what sniffing solvent has done to your brain asshole.

Reply to
jimmy

LOL! Sure you do. You sniff glue and jerk off all day.

Reply to
jimmy

I asked about this in alt.home.repair and was pointed to this technical brief at

djb

Reply to
Dave Balderstone

or even:

er

Reply to
Enoch Root

Yes... That was the first of the two URLs I posted. The second was the page listing many docs including that one.

Reply to
Dave Balderstone

Dave Balderstone wrote in news:090520061454417522%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca:

I really appreciated the part of the artical that stated " DO not use water based adhesive". Regards, Hank

Reply to
Henry St.Pierre

Enoch Root wrote in news:8dGdnWrRWdTq3fzZnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@forethought.net:

Enoch, Like I said to Dave, Thanks. Hank

Reply to
Henry St.Pierre

Heh, your newsreader broke that one, too. I was just fixing it.

er

Reply to
Enoch Root

Enclosing a URL in angle brackets should preserve it across line breaks in a well-behaved newsreader (like the one I use, and I thought T-Bird too) but it all goes to crap as soon as it's quoted.

No worries.

Reply to
Dave Balderstone

LOL! Dave you are so plum full of crap I'm not guessing when I say you have brown eyes.

Reply to
jimmy

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