Motor Tablesaw

My Delta Unisaw has been working fine for fifteen years. Now all of sudden when I push the start button the motors spins very slowly tiring to get up to speed, but does not and after about five seconds trips the breaker. I suspect one of the two capacitors. Could it be anything else? Thanks.
Vic
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That's probably it.
On 7/2/2012 9:22 AM, Victor H. wrote:

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On 7/2/2012 10:48 AM, tiredofspam wrote:

About ten years ago I thought my table saw motor had died. I looked at the price of new motors and priced what it would cost to repair.
Before going all of the way and buying new, I took it to a small motor repair shop for their evaluation. Fifteen bucks later after the repairman showed me how to remove the small wood chips that were preventing the contacts in the motor to close, I was on my way home.
Now periodically (every couple of years)I disassemble the motor cleaning out sawdust and wood chips from the inner recesses of the motor as part of the preventive maintenance of the saw.
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Similar to previous posters, I've had to change the capacitor (~10 yrs ago) on my 1981 Unisaw motor and clean (~2-3 X yr) the contact points on my bandsaw motor, so check both before buying new.
Sonny
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Start capacitor is open. Current in the start winding is low or non-existent and the run winding like a third or forth gear is pulling away from a stop. Not designed to.
Simple to change, most have plug on connectors. Buy the pair - replace both - at a motor repair place. Otherwise from a good supplier. Martin
On 7/2/2012 9:48 AM, tiredofspam wrote:

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On 7/2/2012 8:22 AM, Victor H. wrote:

Probably right but I had a similar problem a few years ago. I lost half the 110 in my house so the motor lost half its power and would not start. Every thing working OK in the house?
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On 7/2/2012 8:22 AM, Victor H. wrote:

First three rules in troubleshooting anything that runs on electricity:
1. Check the voltage 2. Check the voltage 3. Check the volage
Rare, but making sure your circuit breaker, cord, wall outlet, etc. has not given up the ghost, _first_, could cut out a lot of tail chasing.
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On 7/2/2012 11:10 AM, Swingman wrote:

Thanks again for the help! I really really appreciated it.
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On 7/2/2012 11:28 AM, Leon wrote:

My pleasure ... being able to actually tush those fine woodworking projects of yours, not once, but two times, is a treat!
It's Butch's fault ... ;)
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On 7/2/12 11:10 AM, Swingman wrote:

Hey Karl, I think maybe he should check the voltage.
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On 7/2/2012 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

And the spelling ...
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On 7/2/2012 1:20 PM, Swingman wrote:

Butch says voltage 2 times and volage only once. I must be rubbing off you you. LOL
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Try to get in where the centrical switch is and blow it out. It's what controls the capacitors. Probably the contacts others are refering too.
Mike M
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On Mon, 02 Jul 2012 14:31:05 -0700, Mike M

Been reading too many of Leon's posts. I'm starting to type like him. 8-)
Mike M
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On 7/2/2012 6:22 AM, Victor H. wrote:

Motor bearing or arbor bearing.
Most likely arbor bearing.
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On 7/2/2012 6:22 AM, Victor H. wrote:

Check the incoming voltage first.
It "might" be the centrifugal switch in the motor. It "might" be the start/run capacitors. It "might" be the motor bearing.
That is going to require a remove and take to the shop for those issues unless you are very familiar with electric motors.
I would vote for arbor bearing.(I been wrong many times)
The only real way to determine which is the problem requires removing top and taking off belts.
If the blade spins with belts off, it is not the arbor bearing.
Start with start/run capacitors remove and replace, if that doesn't fix it, time to remove the motor for a trip to the shop.
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On 7/3/2012 10:25 AM, Pat Barber wrote:

If the blade spins with the belts off you have a different kind of saw. ;!)
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