mitering decorative moudlings

I'm building a bookcase with 3/4 inch plywood. For the edges I've bought some half round decorative moulding. Any suggestions as to how I miter the 90 degree connection between the vertical sides of the bookcase and the fixed horizontal shelves of the bookcase? I'll be dadoing the shelves into the sides approximately 3/8 of an inch.
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Trebor this is the trickiest mitre to do. try to draw it out full scale so you will understand it it is quite simple If need be write to me with you e-mail address and i will scan a sketch and send it to you.
For your shelves you cut two 45 Degree Mitres so you have a point on the end But it is only half as long for your siide pieces you cut a notch , two 45 degree cuts meeting in the center of your moulding for the point to fit into. To do this your moulding has to be equal on both edges
Depending on the design of the moulding you can cope your shelf pieces onto you side peice. The visual effect is the same
Good Luck, George

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Cope the horizontal moldings.

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It is probably much too late for this suggestion:
It is often faster and easier to hold the shelves and their moldings slightly narrower than the sides/bulkheads. This method can keep all mold cuts simple 90's. This method can also make adjustable shelves look good.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing. . . . DanG

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On 26 Dec 2003 16:11:26 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@shaw.ca (Trebbor) wrote:

Set the front edge of the shelves back a little, and butt the moulding into the case sides.
or
Cut a tee-ed mitre, but use a slightly thinner shelf and a smaller moulding than the case sides. It doesn't form an equal tee, but then it doesn't look like it needs to.
or
Read up on classical Chinese furniture. _Lots_ of mitres in curved edges. -- Klein bottle for rent. Apply within.
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Thank you to everybody for their suggestions. I now have several options for my next project which will have the same design issues.
(Trebbor) wrote:

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