Any suggestions on building a small freestanding cabinet from melamine would
be appreciated. I'm aware of Roo Glue but don't have a convenient source. If
I do rabbets and mortise joints do I need to clean the melamine off the
tenon (shelf)? Do biscuits work without m&t? I have a project that uses
EXACTLY 1 sheet and don't want to screw up!
http://www.rooglue.com/roostore.html Still mostly aimed at pros--smallest
quanitity is a pint. But they've got a good, long list of distributors.
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
Did my first project with Titebond's Melamine glue a few weeks back. Stuck
to me as well as the melamine. This is _not_ your carpenter's glue, so
don't wipe a drip with your finger. Holds well, and in a couple of places
it's glue blocks to wide melamine.
The first and best recommendation for work with melamine is a melamine blade
for your saw. Second would be to use the biscuits rather than increase the
risk of visible scratches on the slick service by making a lot of cuts.
Full back and/or glue blocks will keep it from racking, limiting the stress
on the biscuits to shear only.
Melamine glue is only needed when you are gluing the "face"
surface to another "face" surface. Regular old Titebond will
work fine on the particle board surfaces.
Rabbet and dado are good joinery methods, although many
pros use butt joints and large bolts called conformat screws.
It's a cheap, tough product. It does NOT handle edge screwing
very well, so be careful.
Melamine is also very heavy and very slick and requires
very sharp blades. Use a very high tooth count and a blade
designed for melamine.
Jerry McCaffrey wrote:
Are you saying that Titebond will join the particle-board edge to the melamine
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
The Titebond melamine is harder to find than Roo Glu! How about Gorilla
Glue? I'm trying not to delaminate all of the areas at the joints. Yes I
know biscuits and regular Titebond would work well if I removed all melamine
from the joints, either shoulders of a M&T or face of a flush biscuited
joint. That's a lot of routing to get an MDF to MDF joint.
Nope... regular Titebond will not do that, so I did
miss out on that option. I use little, if any glue on
melamine, I use fastners.
If you are gonna use regular glue, it should be on
particle board surfaces only.
I have no experience with "Roo Glue".
Doug Miller wrote:
Try the Elmers ProBond Poly. I'm building shop cabinets right now out of
melamine. Before starting I tested this glue by face gluing melamine
together. The result was impossible to break apart. On my cabinets I am
using rabbet and dado to join the shelves to the sides, using the ProBond
Poly and melamine screws. I'm very satisfied with the carcasses. In my
case I didn't care about the counterbored screw heads from the outside, but
I could have used pocket screws just as well.
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