Melamine joining

Any suggestions on building a small freestanding cabinet from melamine would be appreciated. I'm aware of Roo Glue but don't have a convenient source. If I do rabbets and mortise joints do I need to clean the melamine off the tenon (shelf)? Do biscuits work without m&t? I have a project that uses EXACTLY 1 sheet and don't want to screw up!
Thanks
Jerry
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IF you do find Roo glue, no need to remove the Melamine. that's the beauty of that stuff. It holds like gangbusters.
Biscuits are used in LIEU of M&T.
Jerry McCaffrey wrote:

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http://www.rooglue.com/roostore.html Still mostly aimed at pros--smallest quanitity is a pint. But they've got a good, long list of distributors.
Charlie Self "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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Did my first project with Titebond's Melamine glue a few weeks back. Stuck to me as well as the melamine. This is _not_ your carpenter's glue, so don't wipe a drip with your finger. Holds well, and in a couple of places it's glue blocks to wide melamine.
The first and best recommendation for work with melamine is a melamine blade for your saw. Second would be to use the biscuits rather than increase the risk of visible scratches on the slick service by making a lot of cuts. Full back and/or glue blocks will keep it from racking, limiting the stress on the biscuits to shear only.

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Melamine glue is only needed when you are gluing the "face" surface to another "face" surface. Regular old Titebond will work fine on the particle board surfaces.
Rabbet and dado are good joinery methods, although many pros use butt joints and large bolts called conformat screws.
http://store.yahoo.com/squaredrive/7050-csp-a.html
It's a cheap, tough product. It does NOT handle edge screwing very well, so be careful.
Melamine is also very heavy and very slick and requires very sharp blades. Use a very high tooth count and a blade designed for melamine.
http://store.yahoo.com/squaredrive/cm-0210-12.html
Jerry McCaffrey wrote:

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Are you saying that Titebond will join the particle-board edge to the melamine face reliably?
-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
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Titebond Melamine glue will. Of course he didn't say that regular would.
wrote:

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Miss America?
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@newspeer2.tds.net>:

The Titebond melamine is harder to find than Roo Glu! How about Gorilla Glue? I'm trying not to delaminate all of the areas at the joints. Yes I know biscuits and regular Titebond would work well if I removed all melamine from the joints, either shoulders of a M&T or face of a flush biscuited joint. That's a lot of routing to get an MDF to MDF joint.
Jerry
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Mine came from a mail-order add-on, but with 150 miles to the nearest woodworking store, much less HD, a lot does.

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Nope... regular Titebond will not do that, so I did miss out on that option. I use little, if any glue on melamine, I use fastners.
If you are gonna use regular glue, it should be on particle board surfaces only.
I have no experience with "Roo Glue".
Doug Miller wrote:

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Try the Elmers ProBond Poly. I'm building shop cabinets right now out of melamine. Before starting I tested this glue by face gluing melamine together. The result was impossible to break apart. On my cabinets I am using rabbet and dado to join the shelves to the sides, using the ProBond Poly and melamine screws. I'm very satisfied with the carcasses. In my case I didn't care about the counterbored screw heads from the outside, but I could have used pocket screws just as well.
-- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.bill.pounds.net/woodshop

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