I'm in the process of making a shop cabinet on top of which will be the
resting place of my planer. This is my first attempt at cabinet
construction. I'm mostly following along with "Building Your Own Kitchen
Cabinetry" by John Paquay to guide me through the process. I'm doing this
not only to get the planer off of the top of the cardboard box it came in,
but also to practice my cabinet-making skills in case I ever get the idea
that my wife will let me build kitchen cabinets. I have the carcasses
constructed (I'm guessing that was the easy part), and now I'm thinking
about doors and drawers. I'm making the cabinet as a whole out of two 18"
wide cabinets. One cabinet will just have a big door for adjustable
shelves, and the other cabinet will be all drawers. My question regards the
door. My preference would be to use a stile and rail router bit set and use
a plywood insert for the panel. However, $50-100 for a stile and rail bit
for a one-off door isn't making me happy. My little woodworking brain tells
me that a few options are
1. Use a tongue and groove construction for the door frame. Use a dado to
cut the slot for a plywood panel.
2. Make a solid door either out of solid wood or perhaps edge-banded
How would you make a door if you were short a stile and rail set?
Todd wrote: >I'm in the process of making a shop cabinet on top of which will
wife ever let's you build the kitchen cabs, then SHE'LL have to decide if the
expense of the bit set is worth it. It probably will be. Luckily (or not), my
wife decided on slab doors, so I've yet to buy a rail and stile set-up. But
with something like that, you might have to practice some. Say, on your shop
cabinets. ; ) That's like, the second "emoticon" I've ever used.Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
I am currently "practicing" making cabinet doors in my shop, in preparation
for the kitchen cabinet project that SWMBO wants. I have a rail and stile
bit set. I built the shop cabinet in Shop Notes #75, but I did real raised
panels for the drawers and doors. I must be doing something right as SWMBO
was in the shop the other day and said something to the effect of "damn
those are nice cabinets. Too nice for your shop. Move them up to my
kitchen". (I did build the shops cabinets out of genuine mahogany......so
the wood choice made them look extra good). I take compliments any way I
can get them from the wife..
Yes, it'll work, but the door will be relatively weak. Better to use
biscuits, unless the groove is pretty deep.
Better yet to use M & T.
You can either build the door round the ply (using a groove to house the
You can rebate the frame members, assemble them, then insert the panel last,
using mitred mouldings to hold the panel in. If you do this, you need to
use a long-and-short shouldered tenon.
Or you can make the frame with no grooves or rebates, assemble it, rout a
rebate all the way round, square off the corners with a chisel, and insert
the panel, holding it with planted mouldings
No reason why not, other than aesthetics. You'll need to consider your
hinge options, though - plywood doesn't like screws in the end grain too
much, so an inset door with simple butts is not a good idea.
Another option is a ledged-and-braced door, if you're in a hurry. (Like an
As above, if I were just making one or two, and wasn't too concerned about
appearance. If you're going to be doing a kitchen-full, then bite the
bullet and spend the money!
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
If I had a biscuit jointer I'd use that for the frame and plywood for the
If I didn't have a biscuit jointer I could use half lap, bridle, M&T, stub
M&T, or spline joints for the door frames, Then still go for the dado ply
Thanks for all the replies.
After looking up a bridle joint, that is the correct description of what I
had in mind when I said "tongue and groove". It seems like it will be
relatively easy to make and strong with the large amount of surface area for
For a shop cabinet-- slab doors, Melamine.
Easiest kind of frame and panel doors would seem to be pegged half-laps with
rabbets in back for a thin plywood panel (or glass or acrylic or whatever),
which is held in by little nailer strips.
I'm not going to try cope-and-stick until I get a shaper.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.