Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
the group, but need to ask a question now.
I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
pushing down too hard or what?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Dave in Northern Colorado
I did put a little beeswax on the table right after cleaning all the
gook off it. I am waiting for the weather to improve, and then I was
planning on cleaning it really well and applying a thin coat of
shellac. I had read Tom Watson's post on that and it sounded like a
very good way to prevent rust and provide a slickery surface.
Thanks for the info.
Shouldn't need much if any downward push, especially on the infeed side.
Those cheap push-blocks are only meant to give you forward movement. You
can put a little more pressure on the outfeed table but don't over do that
either. If the tables are aligned properly (get the owner's manual out for
that one) and the knives are sharp (new machine so should be ok), then let
the machine do the work.
I followed the destructions that came with the jointer for aligning
the tables, and on shorter pieces it seems to work ok. The problems I
am having is when I try to face an 8 or 9 foot piece of red oak. From
some of the other posts, I think I have "seen the light"
Thanks for the info!
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 03:39:15 GMT, "Tom Kohlman"
Does the project you have planned require 8' to 9' long stock? I cut the stock
to slightly longer than required before surfacing. It makes things much easier.
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
The current project does not, but the next one will require some 6' to
7' lengths. I agree, when the stock is shorter, the jointing is much
On the brighter side, I have gotten some in/outfeed stands, and with
the input I have gotten from everyone, I think the next round will go
Thanks for the info.
Good luck Dave
Keeping the thing tuned and sharp knives are important (wait until you have
to replace the latter...OUCH!!!) LOL But I can say that I did a big project
over the summer on my Delta 6" where I "abused" it so the $50 for new knives
after two years of relatively regular moderate use was expected.
I would make sure that you have really cleaned up the bed & fence first. If
you have not already done it use a solvent like WD 40 or mineral spirits to
really clean all cast surfaces. After everything is clean put a few coats
of wax on.
If you have already done the above then I would check to make sure that the
depth of cut is really 1/32". The other thing to check is that your knives
are all set at the same height. A lose belt can also effect the cut. I
have a tape that does a great job of showing how to tune-up a jointer. I
would gladly loan it to you if you like.
Bob McBreen - Yarrow Point, WA
One of the first things I did was get out the WD40 and get all the
gook off. After having done it, I was worried that maybe I should
have used something different, like some kind of orange oil cleanser
or something. Glad to hear the WD40 is an approved cleaner. <g>
Some of the other responses have led me to what I believe is my
problem, namely poor form in feeding the stock.
Thanks for the info, and the offer of the tape. Unfortunately, since
we got the new dvd player, I can't remember how to hook up the VCR!
Need to get one of my kids over to show me how again!
Like someone said, you don't have to push down; you have to push across.
You should have push blocks that grab the back end of the piece.
I am not recommending this particular pushblock or the company; I just
wanted an illustration of what you should be using.
I made the mistake of pushing down into the blade when I got my jointer.
Made a lot of scrap that way. I have a standard set of pushblocks myself.
Feed the stock into the blade with light pressure from the infeed side and
firmer pressure from the outfeed side, making sure not to put pressure on
the stock directly over the turning blades. you are sure to have uneven
pressure at some point of the stock when over the blade causing an uneven
cutting pattern. Make sure that you are keeping the stock directly against
the fence. Also, make sure that the outfeed table is at the exact height of
the cutting blade at the apex. Make sure to balance both blades so that
they rest exactly level to the outfeed table. This makes a huge difference.
Hope this helps.
John V ( Still very much a newbie)
I was doing exactly that, and like you say, it makes for a lot of
scrap! I was also standing way to the right of the outfeed table and
shoving the board into the blade.
Thanks for the tips!
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 08:07:43 GMT, "JohnV"
I'm probably right down the road from you. Be glad to spend a couple
of minutes with you if it would help. I use a Sunhill jointer, but
all the 6" jointers are pretty similar.
As other posters noted, don't push down too hard on the infeed side.
You're just trying to whack off the high spots on each pass through
the jointer. It really doesn't take too much downward pressure at
all. If you have a bowed board, do it concave side down. If you have
a twisted board, be careful not to rock it as you are doing the pass.
Fort Collins, CO
On 13 Jan 2004 06:06:57 -0800, n firstname.lastname@example.org (Nate Perkins)
I am in Greeley. Whereabouts in Fort Collins? About the only place I
go to over there is the Sears Trostle store over by old towne. Are
there any other places around to find good wood?
How are you liking our January weather?
I'm in southeast Ft Collins, behind the new hospital. Give me a call
if you want to come by and test out jointers (I'm in the book).
Yeah, January is sometimes a bit cold out in shop (which is located in
the third bay of my garage). I recently got a ceiling-mounted IR
heater that is a big help. Lately I'm just building small stuff
(boxes with marquetry and the like, and trying to get practiced at
hand-cut mitered dovetails). SWMBO is talking about getting me to
build a dining room buffet for her, though (wahoo!). I am ready to
make real piles of sawdust again.
Sears Trostel has a woodworking class that they have run the last
couple of months that covers techniques with several power tools,
including the jointer.
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