Kreg pocket screw jig

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Sounds reasonable.
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You've done this with a Kreg K3 master kit?
Frank
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wrote:

I would think it impossible except if you were using the small portable pocket rocket, or what ever Kreg calls it.
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On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 21:30:20 GMT, "Leon"

portable and set the stop collar improperly to get penetration, the minor diameter of the step drill is a clearance diameter, larger than the screw. so all you would accomplish is putting a clearance hole in the second piece, reducing the amount of thread bite, and thinning out the material below the counterbore. None of those are good things.
Frank
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Absolutely correct. When screwing the fastener, the threads will grab a bit in the upper piece before you get any traction on the lower piece. I the will cause "jacking", the tendency for the the pieces to push apart. This is why it is necessary to clamp your pieces while driving the screws.
-Steve
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wrote:

Well, yes, however, when making face frames it is normally the rails that you drill the pocket holes in so that the end grain of the rails are hidden by the stile. But you can do them all at once. I usually set stops to cut everything first, lay it all out to make sure it fits, then go back and do the pocket holes all at once.
Frank
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A question about that. Wouldn't a screw hold better going from a pocket hole in an end grain into side grain? Of course, it would depend on which stile and rail you were working with. Rails are sandwiched between stiles on either end, but the reverse is true in the middle of a face frame where the stiles are sandwiched between rails.
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wrote:

Yes.
And any full rails in the middle for drawers, doors, etc.

a door partition, yes always put the pocket holes in the piece where the screw will exit the end grain into the side of the other piece.
Additionally, if your K3 master did not come with a 90 degree clamp (3/8" dia rod on one end, flat plate on the other) you should get one. very helpful.
Try it out, you'll like it I suspect.
Frank
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If you're talking about item 'B' in the picture, I bought on at the same time I purchase my K3 kit. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&pI892&cat=,46275 And yeah, it does look like a helpful clamp.
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wrote:

No, talking about "C", You should have gotten a face clamp with the kit. WHen I bought mine, I bought it at a show and they were throwing in the 90 degree clamp.
Frank
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"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message

The clamping system I use most of the time (when I can remember where I put the special clamp):
http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht/product.php?PRODUCT_IDh
I've got the plate inlaid in a good size piece of plywood, real handy (and it's hard to misplace/hide)
:)
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I like that. Don't see any possible way to get any face misalignment with that clamp. Course, in South Texas, something else to keep from rusting.
Now, if we can just do something about that memory. Which wall did I hang that thing on......... :~) Know all about that memory thing.
Frank
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YEAH! ;~)
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My mistake. I did buy the "C" but typoed when I replied.
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(Not speaking for Frank, of course). You're right - in those cases I put the pockets in the style. I never have gone into end grain with the screw. I'm betting Frank was just referring to the outside part of the frame.
Jim In Fl.
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"Upscale" wrote in message

Actually, I drill all my rails first (both ends), without a stile in sight. :)
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I'm confused about which piece you're suggesting to put the pocket hole. Isn't there a stronger joint where a pocket hole would be put in any end grain piece butting up against a side grain? A screw tip would bite better into side grain than pocket hole in side grain with screw biting into end grain.
I believe you're just considering only simple cabinet doors (two rails, two stiles) when you're talking about which piece has the pocket hole, and in that regard I'd agree with you. But, what if you had a larger door with two rails and three stiles? Then I'd be tempted to place the pocket holes in the middle stile and screw it into the rail for the stronger joint.
I've had in my mind larger unit face frames like my entertainment centre where there's a greater number of rails and stiles with some stiles butting up against the middle of the rail. Then I believe it might be a little different where you place the pocket hole. Am I explaining properly?
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"Upscale" wrote in message

Drill the pocket holes in the ends of rails that go between two stiles, and in the ends of intermediate stiles that go between two rails.
The end result of this is apparently what you are trying to describe above. :)
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Yeah, I've been accused of being long winded sometimes. :)
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"Upscale" wrote in message

Here's a picture worth a lot of wind:
http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/FFPocketHoles.JPG
:)
(Arrows are the ends where the pocket holes are drilled, and the direction of the arrows is the direction the screw goes)
FWIW, this is pretty standard procedure as far as I know. I've literally done hundreds of face frames, and do them all this way.
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