I realize now that that is what another poster must have meant as well.
It's hard to describe spatial concepts in text sometimes.
I have two possible difficulties with your idea. The first is that the
long brace that I cut would now be just a tad short to do it your way. I
don't think I have any pieces long enough left. In addition, it might
obstruct access to the damper pedal when I use it with the keyboard.
I'll think about it.
I've recently found out that joints with pocket screws are a lot stronger
than I ever would have expected. I'd built utilitarian things like brackets
to hold up my DC piping with them but when the need came to knock together
a quick TV stand for Mom's new flatscreen I took a chance and used the Kreg
for something serious. As it happened some wide white oak and some thick
white oak were on the top of the wood rack after a cleanup so they were
elected. The stand is 31 X 11 X 21 (WDH) the top and bottom are each held
in place by two 1-1/4" fine-thread Kreg screws into the leg at right angles
at each corner (eight per shelf) and the middle shelf floats on some
homemade 3/16" brass pins and can fit at three different spacings or it can
be removed entirely. So, seven pieces of wood, 16 Kreg screws, and 4 brass
pins later I can say that you _can_ use pocket screws for decent furniture
when you don't want to use traditional joinery.
The stand passed my wiggle test -- sit my 200 pounds down on it and wiggle
and if it stands solid it passes. One change I might have made would have
been to use longer screws but I only had fine-thread in the shorter length;
going from shelf into leg I could have use 1-1/2" for a bit more strength.
As for how close to the edge, there seems to be very little chance of a
blowout but I wouldn't get too close simply to make sure that there was
enough wood for strength left on both sides of the hole. The recesses on my
shelves are 1-1/4" square wrapped around 1-1/2" legs and the holes were
roughly centered on each side of the recesses. Had the legs been slightly
beefier and/or the recesses slightly larger I could have used two holes
side-by-side instead of singles but this would have been pushing it in such
a short distance. I didn't glue at all since I've found that cross-grain
and end-grain glue gains very little strength and that usually goes away
after the first seasonal change.
Thanks. Looks nice, by the way (and perhaps even within my skill range).
I grabbed a couple of pieces from the Guarino Museum of Test Scraps last
night and made my first Kreg joint, oak 1x2 and 1x3 fastened at a right
angle (like two sides of a butt-jointed picture frame). I didn't bother
clamping it while I drove the screws, and the result was (predictably)
ever so slightly out of alignment. But it had a satisfying feeling of
"grab" as the screws went in and the joint felt very solid. Looks
Yes, pocket screws are great. One of the few "shortcuts" I found that
does what everyone says it does. I of course use the cheap $40 Kreg
I didn't glue at all since I've found that cross-grain and end-grain
glue gains very little
strength and that usually goes away after the first seasonal change.
Same, I never use glue with pocket screws, and it's meaningless in edge
Nice work, lots of nice work, once I found your WW page.
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
After making a couple of test joints I decided to forgo the glue.
Here's the result:
and without the top slats to show the structure:
We put about 450 pounds on it with no hint of wiggle. This pocket
screw thing has real possibilities. I built a shelf for a chain saw
(in a few minutes) yesterday with them also.
I built a Japanese style bridge 8 years ago in the back yard.
Initially I was going to put the rails on by mortising them into the
upright posts. Decided to to it quick and dirty with pocket hole
screws. I filled the holes with dowels, then sawed them flush with a
LV flush cut saw. It is still sturdy and still looks good. Picture
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