Kreg Jig advice

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On 4/11/2012 10:13 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Scrape or use an aggressive grit sand paper.. Glue is going to help prevent wiggle in the joint should the wood shrink and the screws loosen any at all.
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On 4/11/2012 9:18 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Rather than the 3 sided bracing, consider bracing front to back on each end with a single cross piece at their midpoint.
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On 4/11/2012 5:59 PM, DanG wrote:

I realize now that that is what another poster must have meant as well. It's hard to describe spatial concepts in text sometimes.
I have two possible difficulties with your idea. The first is that the long brace that I cut would now be just a tad short to do it your way. I don't think I have any pieces long enough left. In addition, it might obstruct access to the damper pedal when I use it with the keyboard. I'll think about it.
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On 4/11/2012 10:18 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've recently found out that joints with pocket screws are a lot stronger than I ever would have expected. I'd built utilitarian things like brackets to hold up my DC piping with them but when the need came to knock together a quick TV stand for Mom's new flatscreen I took a chance and used the Kreg for something serious. As it happened some wide white oak and some thick white oak were on the top of the wood rack after a cleanup so they were elected. The stand is 31 X 11 X 21 (WDH) the top and bottom are each held in place by two 1-1/4" fine-thread Kreg screws into the leg at right angles at each corner (eight per shelf) and the middle shelf floats on some homemade 3/16" brass pins and can fit at three different spacings or it can be removed entirely. So, seven pieces of wood, 16 Kreg screws, and 4 brass pins later I can say that you _can_ use pocket screws for decent furniture when you don't want to use traditional joinery.
The stand passed my wiggle test -- sit my 200 pounds down on it and wiggle and if it stands solid it passes. One change I might have made would have been to use longer screws but I only had fine-thread in the shorter length; going from shelf into leg I could have use 1-1/2" for a bit more strength.
As for how close to the edge, there seems to be very little chance of a blowout but I wouldn't get too close simply to make sure that there was enough wood for strength left on both sides of the hole. The recesses on my shelves are 1-1/4" square wrapped around 1-1/2" legs and the holes were roughly centered on each side of the recesses. Had the legs been slightly beefier and/or the recesses slightly larger I could have used two holes side-by-side instead of singles but this would have been pushing it in such a short distance. I didn't glue at all since I've found that cross-grain and end-grain glue gains very little strength and that usually goes away after the first seasonal change.
http://johnmcgaw.com/image/OAK_TV_STAND.jpg
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On 4/12/2012 10:10 AM, John McGaw wrote:

Thanks. Looks nice, by the way (and perhaps even within my skill range).
I grabbed a couple of pieces from the Guarino Museum of Test Scraps last night and made my first Kreg joint, oak 1x2 and 1x3 fastened at a right angle (like two sides of a butt-jointed picture frame). I didn't bother clamping it while I drove the screws, and the result was (predictably) ever so slightly out of alignment. But it had a satisfying feeling of "grab" as the screws went in and the joint felt very solid. Looks promising.
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On 4/12/2012 3:04 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Geez. I just had a quick look at some of your other projects. The TV stand is among the few that would be within my (current) skill range.
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On 4/12/2012 7:10 AM, John McGaw wrote:

That's pretty cool John...I been loving the Kreg deal for about 10 years now and it is a way to do nice projects.
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On 4/12/2012 10:10 AM, John McGaw wrote:

Yes, pocket screws are great. One of the few "shortcuts" I found that does what everyone says it does. I of course use the cheap $40 Kreg thing-ee:-)
I didn't glue at all since I've found that cross-grain and end-grain glue gains very little strength and that usually goes away after the first seasonal change.
Same, I never use glue with pocket screws, and it's meaningless in edge grain.

Nice work, lots of nice work, once I found your WW page.
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Jack
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<SNIP>
After making a couple of test joints I decided to forgo the glue. Here's the result:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/7099721377/in/photostream/lightbox /
and without the top slats to show the structure:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/7099715837/in/photostream/lightbox /
We put about 450 pounds on it with no hint of wiggle. This pocket screw thing has real possibilities. I built a shelf for a chain saw (in a few minutes) yesterday with them also.
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Greg Guarino wrote:

I built a Japanese style bridge 8 years ago in the back yard. Initially I was going to put the rails on by mortising them into the upright posts. Decided to to it quick and dirty with pocket hole screws. I filled the holes with dowels, then sawed them flush with a LV flush cut saw. It is still sturdy and still looks good. Picture in ABPW.
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G.W. Ross

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