Jointer motor failure

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My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC motor).
The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry open my wallet?
Thanks,
Steve
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wrote:
Yeah, you are lucky. My similar Yorkcraft's motor quit after 2 years, than I was pretty dumb. I ordered a new Baldor motor (about $250) after installing it, I found I have the wrong RPM. I have a quick sale in craigslist for $250 without the new Baldor motor. The buyer insist that I gave him the old motor. After I moved out of State and bought a used Delta DJ20, I realized that I could have repaired it by replacing the capacitor for less than $15. Go to McMaster Carr type in exactly the specifications:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#capacitors /jbq7

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Good link.
What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended). I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.
Thanks,
Steve
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On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 07:33:10 -0400, "StephenM"

Being a novice in electrical, here's what I did when my vintage Delta's drill motor stopped working, I removed the motor from the mounting and applied power, It will not rotate. With the power still on, I manually rotate the pulley, it continues to rotate and speed up to full rpm. When I switched the power off, it stopped rotating. I repeat the test a few times to be sure. I concluded that the capacitor had failed as the capacitor main function is to start the motor. However, if the motor cannot rotate manually without power on, than it could be the bearings, or if it rotates and make a sound it maybe the carbon brushes or other problems. If you have a millimeter and know how to test the motor winding do it, otherwise go 30 miles and have someone test it for you, rather than replacing the motor like I did.
To continue the story... I tried to resizing both pulleys to get the RPM I need for my new motor, I found it's impossible as the pulley size will be too big to fit the constrained space. Anyone looking for a new unused Baldor motor? Make me an offer that I cannot refuse. I am in CA.
I believe the capacitor you need is 7245K111.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7245k111 /vfi5
If the spec and the size fit your motor click "1" on the "EACH" at the lower left side... and you got a new capacitor.
Good luck, please tell us the result :-)
BTW, C.H. Wilke Inc. no longer sell Yorkcraft and I still using the Yorkcraft 15" planner.

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snipped-for-privacy@primelink1.net says...

microfarads IIRC...
Type MFD capacitor into google.
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Capacitance, actually -- a measure of the capacitor's ability to hold electric charge. MFD = microfarads. This is also sometimes shown as the Greek letter mu (which looks like a lower-case u with a tail) followed by the letter f.

There's really no need at all to match the physical dimensions. The new capacitor doesn't have to be mounted in the same orientation, or even in the same place, as the old one. It just needs to have the same electrical connections.
You don't need an exact match on the voltage; anything rated between 115V and 125V will match up with about anything else rated in the same range.
The capacitance needs to be a fairly close match, I'd guess +/- five or ten percent. Exact match of course is better.
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"C & S" wrote:

Sounds like it may be a bad start capacitor.
(It's located on the side of the motor under that little hump cover.)
Open cover and look at cap for leaks and rating.
Grainger, McMaster-Carr, local motor shop, good hardware store, etc, should have replacement.
Lew
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You may have bad bearings especially if the armature is hard to turn with no power. One cause of a hum with no start condition is a bad capacitor.
Lots of places sell bearings. Motor shops should have capacitors in stock.
I suspect that you could buy both bearings and capacitor for less than $199. However, a motor shop might charge you more than $199 to fix your motor.
Jim
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$199.
A repair shop is unlikely to charge more than a new motor might cost since they wouldn't get much business. It's not going to hurt to take the motor in and get an estimate. My 1 hp tablesaw motor bearings went a few years ago. I knew they were going from the sound but resisted taking the motor in until I sold the saw to a close friend. Estimate was $86 with a six month warranty. A new motor would have cost me $200 ca with a two year warranty. Had the motor repaired and it's run fine for the past twelve years.
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C & S wrote:

I agree with the other posters that the most likely case is the start capacitor. If you have another stationary tool with a motor in the 1.5 range try swapping the capacitor to see if it's the problem. For the test the capacitor doesn't have to be an exact replacement, as long as it's close to the 400 - 480 MFD range and rated for 120V. A new capacitor will run about $10 - $15.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Nova wrote:

CORRECTION - make that 400 - 480 MFD rated for 250V.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:55:33 -0400, "C & S"

If by "wobbles back and forth" you mean the shaft moves laterally relative to the motor case, then your bearing are long gone. If you mean a rotational wobble, then I'll echo the other responses. Take the capacitor and a $10 bill to a local motor shop and get a replacement.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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What is the problem with a 30 mile ride? Take the wife to breakfast and stop at the motor shop. Chances are, it can be fixed for cheap if it is just a capacitor or such.
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wrote in message

The problem with a 3o mile ride is the possibility that I have to drop it off so that they can look at it later meaning 2 trips and a not so nominal charge to declair it "not worth fixing" ... that's why I asked here to get a feel for what might be wrong.
-steve
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The motor shops I've dealt with have never made a charge if it could not be fixed. In my case, that would only be one trip since we have a telephone. Of course, I'll drive 30 miles just to get a loaf of good bread.
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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

And here I thought that was something only done in SoCal<grin>
Assume "good bread" includes good deli rye, something that is almost impossible to find in Socal.
Lew
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On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 22:44:46 +0000, Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's pretty difficult to find in Eastern WA as well :-(.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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That is exactly what I mean. Widoff's Bakery in Worcester MA had a great sourdough Jewish rye, just like the old days. Just don't go the day before Christmas or Easter unless you can wait in line for a half hour at 7 AM. Same thing at Golemo's for the kielbasa. There are a few very good ethnic stores in the area.
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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

You want good fresh kielbasa or Italian sausage, ya gotta make your own.
Still got my hand grinder and sausage stuffer snout at the ready.
Lew
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Others have suggested 'bad start capacitor'.
In addition to the start capacitor, there's a switch that connects the capacitor at startup and disconnects it during motor run. Don't be so sure you need to buy parts; I've fixed motors by cleaning sawdust from those switches.
It's usually inside the bell housing of the motor, near the centrifugal arms (at speed, these weights pull a spring back and the switch opens up).
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