rpm = 180,000
You would need to increase the router bit to 1-1/2" dia to equal the joiners
That said, it seems that the router table would have an advantage with long
stock as supporting the ends would be easier (without bridging the fence).
Well for one, a joiner is a person (cabinetmaker) and a router table is an
With a jointer, you can flatten the face of a board and make one edge
perpendicular to the face just flattened. You can use a router and a fence
as you indicate to edge-joint a board but to flatten a face of a board you
would be limited to the height of the router bit.
The advantage of edge jointing using a jointer over a router setup would
depend on several variables (width of edge, how long the stock is, how long
the router table, sturdiness and accuracy of router fence, etc.).
working the face of boards up to 6" or 8" or, if you've dropped some
serious cash, 12" or wider! I doubt you have a router bit that can cut
even 3 inches! A well tuned jointer does a fast job and leaves a
surface requiring minimal sanding even for perfectionists.
Worth noting, with a 6" jointer, can't you surface 12" wide boards
in two passes??????? That said, for a novice what advantages does the
Powermatic 6" jointer have over the Jet for ~$200 more in price, other
than longer beds?????
the Powermatic 6" is what I've got and it's got what I wanted: a loooong
bed, quality, and FLAT beds and fence. That's critical to the purpose
of using a jointer.
Yes you can do a wider board, but it may not come out perfect, like
jointing a board narrower than the blade. Also, if you want to joint
just a tiny bit off, you'll have to find a similarly thin piece of
material to place on the rabbetting table to help stabilize the board
for the second pass.
For me it's WELL worth the little bit extra expense. Consider how long
you'll own it...
Joseph Crowe wrote:
I think what he meant is that you can do a 12" wide board using "skip
jointing" - where a majority of a surface is flattened sufficiently to put
it through a planer and not have any adverse effects, such as flattening
cupping in the board only to have it spring back. I have done 8" wide stock
using a 6" jointer and then plane the surface.
The extra long beds certainly are nice too. Every time I have one of those
projects that require 7' to 8' long pieces I have to put lead weights in my
britches just so I have enough oomph to keep the board from lifting....;-)
Yes, that was what I was thinking of. I have seen some interesting
techniques, though, that one can do to make a planer work for such
things as well. For instance, with a warped or cupped board, you can
edge glue the board to two straight boards and run it through the
thickness planer until it's flat on one surface and then eliminate the
side boards and surface the other side. Winding sticks and a hand plane
also work.....after all, that's how it was done for a long time before
modern power tools existed.
That would not be a challenge for me.....*BEG*
Thanks for the input...it's in the consideration hopper
Couple of things I can think of off hand:
1) versatility - you can more easily joint non-90 degree edges
2) face jointing (flattening stock) - can't do it with a router
3) longer table = ability to joint longer stock
There are others, but the biggest advantage I can think of this: if you
primarily use your jointer for making edges straight you can set it once and
leave it that way. It always took me 5 to 10 minutes to change my router
table from whatever else I was doing with it to "jointer mode". It is soooo
handy to be able to take a board straight from the table saw to the jointer
without having to change the configuration of the router table.
As you know there is more than one way to skin a cat. But even for a
weekend woodworker such as myself the jointer was a very, very welcome
addition to my shop. I knew it would be handy, but I'm using it much, much
more than I ever thought I would.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.