I cannot believe how much wood costs

And please help me with this dimension question.

the shed I am building is 12' wide 16' deep.

Here is what I have for materials just for the floor all Pressure treated:

Item Price Quantity Total

6x6 $ 30.00 2 $ 60.00 2x8x12 $ 9.97 14 $ 139.58 2x8x16 $ 13.39 2 $ 26.78 4x8x3/4 $ 28.00 6 $ 168.00

I am guessingon the 2x8x12 at 14 pieces because they are supposed to be every 16'' on center. I took 12x16 and got 192 and divided this by 16 and of course got 12. I then put two rim joists on and got 14. Is this right?

The plywood is the killer. They way I look at it, since the shed is 12 feet wide and since I nail it perpindicular to the joists, then I need three

4x8x3/4'' for one half (three pieces) and three more for the other half of the shed floor. Is this right?

This is a total of $394.36. An enormous price for just the floor. The floor appears to be the most expensive part. All the 2x4s for the rest (whitewood, not pressure treated okay I guess) are from 2.39 - 5.35.

Please tell me I did the floor measurements wrong and things really don't cost this much (hopefully not more!)

Thanks as always.

Reply to
jm
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Sounds about right to me...6 pieces, yep. Someday, it'll all be over....

Reply to
Tom

I am just about ready to buy the prefab shed at HD.

Reply to
jm

you're funny!

dave

jm wrote:

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

I think I am going to get the cheap metal shed.

Reply to
jm

Put this into perspective. You will have a weather tight structure for about $2 a square foot. Compare that to the other weather tight structure that you own.

Reply to
Leon

Oups...Maybe $5 a square foot...

Reply to
Leon

Sounds about right. That is one of the reasons that I went with a poured concrete floor for my 10x12. The other reason was because I didn't want to build a ramp or step up that much to get into the shed. The concrete floor cost me about $250-$300 total, which includes the concrete, wood concrete forms, stakes, rebar, gravel, rental on a couple of floats, and 2 cases of beer. The beer was payment to a couple friends for the help and was paid AFTER the job was done.

Reply to
KS

You got screwed on that slab. Sixty 60# bags makes 120 sq. ft. at

4"thick.You dd the multiplication. Forms? Come on, that is scrap wood. Float rental? Puhleeze, skreet it off with a crowned 2=D74 and then polish it with a home-made wooden trowel if you must. Radius tool cost $6.
Reply to
RM MS

LOL ... still a helluva bargain.

Reply to
Swingman

You obviously forgot to figure in the 2 cases of beer that he bought also.

4"thick.You dd the multiplication. Forms? Come on, that is scrap wood. Float rental? Puhleeze, skreet it off with a crowned 2×4 and then polish it with a home-made wooden trowel if you must. Radius tool cost $6.
Reply to
Leon

jm wrote, wondering if this is really what he meant?

Why not build it up off the ground and use so called white wood or pour a concrete floor?

Rich

Reply to
Rich

LOL, better question, did YOU do the math? If you use 60lb bags it would= =20 take 80 bags for a 120sq.ft.x4"thick slab. However, who said anything=20 about 4" thick? Did I mention using bags? Nope, seems like your assuming= =20 alot based on the way you would pour a basic patio slab.=20

The rental was for a bull float and an extra trowel for a total of about=20

10 bucks or so. And yes I did screed across with a 2x4, then used the=20 bull float, then finished it with a steel trowel. I did buy an edger for= =20 about 6 bucks too because I didn't remember seeing the one I already had=20 with the other tools. As for the forms your exactly right, except if you don't have scrap wood=20 then you have to buy some, in my case it was 2x6's and a couple of 2x4's=20 for the "patio" front step. The reason for the 2x6's was because of the=20 integral footings that I used/and surface ground level. Next thing, when= =20 was the last time you priced 1/2" rebar? that stuff is a tad expensive=20 when you opt for using all rebar and not wire mesh. Btw, I used 2.5=20 yards of concrete that I had delivered, figure that out.

=20

Reply to
KS

If the floor is touching the ground, then I can't use the whitewood, I thought. What about gravel? Another person mentioned that to me. When exactly must I have PT wood? 2x4s are 2.53 - 5.35 apiece depending on the length (non PT). Much cheaper.

Reply to
jm

When you want it to last. If you are in the desert, white wood can last many years. In a damp climate, I'd use PT or concrete. Even if the floor is off the ground by a few inches, it is subject to a lot of exposure to moisture and you can't get under there to paint it.

My original deck was put in by the builder. It was repaired after 4 years, replaced after 8. Ed

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

Assuming you're going to lay the 6x6s flat (as beams) and the run the joists on top? Why 6x6 and not 4x4? Ever thought about using some concrete blocks to elevate the wood off the ground? (the 4" blocks not 8").

Add a third beam, use 2x6s for joists - cost differential? Could even be 24" apart (be careful - depending on what you're storing).

How heavy's the stuff you're storing? I build a shed to use as a garage for my motorcycle, and used 4x4 "beams" 4' apart, on 4x8x16 concrete blocks, and 2x6's joists @ 12" o.c. IIRC. Worked well for many years (bike now gone, shed still in fine shape).

You need 13 2x's for the joists ((16' / 16") + 1) unless you're doubling up the rim joists, in which case you need 15.

3/4 T&G subflooring costs $27 a sheet? Is this stuff pressure treated (hopefully)?

Renata

(no stain for email)

Reply to
Renata

looks about right. You might save a little money if you went with exterior grade plywood instead of PT ply. May not need PT if it's up off the ground.

You are building a substantial floor structure. If you're thinking of going pre-fab to save money just remember you won't be getting a floor (if you get one at all) remotely resembling what you're proposing to build here.

Quality construction costs $$

Reply to
Tom Bergman

Why not the 8'' blocks? I have about 40 of them. They are the cynder block kind with connector and corner pieces.

Reply to
jm

Can I use 1/2 plywood instead?

Reply to
jm

I have revised it:

Item Price Quantity Total

4x4 $ 8.97 3 $ 26.91 2x4x8 $ 2.97 9 $ 26.73 2x4x10 $ 4.19 2 $ 8.38 4x8x3/4 $ 17.00 3 $ 51.00

Total: $ 113.02

The shed is now 10x8 and everything is pressure treated except the plywood floor. The 4x4s will be set on cynder blocks.

This shed is the "real" size that I need (was 16x12) and is within my budget. I estimate the rest of the shed to be:

2x4x8 $ 2.61 54 $ 140.94 2x4x8 $ 2.61 6 $ 15.66 2x4x10 $ 3.05 6 $ 18.30

Total: $ 174.90

The shingles and paint will of course be more, but I have to add that to any shed prefab or not.

So it looks like the total is $287.92 or exactly what a prefab metal shed costs.

It wil be holding lawn equipment the heaviest item being a riding lawnmore. I don't know how much it weighs. I can turn it over, so it can't weigh too much. It is a seventeen year old Snapper. The floor should hold it. The cynder blocks are 8'' off the ground so I have to figure out some way to build a strong enough ramp to cover the 8 plus the 4 for the skids, plus the

4 for the 2x4, plus the 3/4 inch floor. I wonder if gravity will soon set in an hurt the floor at that height. Is that too high?

Reply to
jm

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