How to remove a broken screw?

I am working with white oak and brass hinges. The hinges came with #4 brass screws. When first installing the hinges I used steel screws. When attempting to replace the steel screws with the brass ones the second one broke. My question is how do I remove the broken piece of the screw? Thanks for any and all help.

Reply to
trvlnmny
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Ask for EZ-Out at your favorite automotive (or other) store. See below

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success with them has been mixed. I've never tried one on a brass screw, but it seems like it should work. HTH, Bill

Reply to
Bill

EZ-out is made for screws with stripped heads, not for broken ones AFAIK.

Somewhere I saw a device like a mini- hole saw. You cut a plug out with the broken screw in the center, then plug the hole and go from there.

Reply to
Gerald Ross

If you have some steel brake line, or an old golf club cut them apart to make a tube that goes over the screw.

Take a triangular file and cut teeth on the ends of the tube.

Drill around the screw, take a screw driver and pry the plug out. Replace the plug... btw if you use a golf club you can make a larger tube for the replacement plug if you don't have plug cutters.

Next time put candle wax on your steel screw. Then a little more on your brass screw. It makes the world of difference.

Reply to
tiredofspam

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one is from Amazon and is called a 5/15" screw extractor.

Reply to
Gerald Ross

Yes, that's for "quitters"! : )

Reply to
Bill

Then procede as Gerald stated

Bill H.

Reply to
Bill Hall

I'm guessing that it's the brass screw which broke on the way in. If there's ny shank sticking out, try using a pair of needle nose vise grips to unscrew it. If not, use a 1/4 or 5/16" hollow drill to remove the screw piece and surrounding wood, then glue in a piece of 1/4" or

5/16" dowel. Allow to dry, cut flush, and redrill the pilot hole.

First, always use the proper pilot drill bit to prepare the hole. Second, use wax or screw lube any time a brass screw is used. That includes waxing the steel screw prior to inserting the waxed brass one.

-- The ultimate result of shielding men from folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer

Reply to
Larry Jaques

We are talking wood and a tiny little #4. I think you need to drill tiny holes all around it and dig it out, then drill out a clean 1/4" or 3/8"hole and pound in a dowel and shavv it clean with a sharp chisel. Tip: to drill a hole in an exact location with an existing raggedy hole nearby, lay a small piece of wood over the site, clamped in-place and drill through that.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

I used the 1/4" version when I had a similar problem recently (though my problem was the defective steel screws).

Worked quite nicely, though I'm still a bit worried about having 3 of the screws going into end grain where I plugged the holes w/ dowels

--- wouldn't be as worried 'cept that 2 of the holes are under 1 hinge half, leaving only 1 good screw for that part...

Reply to
willadams

If you had used a plug cutter to cut new plugs, you wouldn't have to use end grain. Just use a cutter bigger than the hole. Glue in, and relax. That's kind of why a golf and brake line make sense.

Of go to a hobby supply and get some tubing. Pick out some tubing that fits into each other. Then make your own. ABout $2...

Reply to
tiredofspam

I have a new 2 iron that deserves to be of some use!

Reply to
Doug Winterburn

Reply to
tiredofspam

I made mine out of steel roll pins from my hardware store. They last a hell of a lot longer than brass does. I just wish my DP had a reverse on it. Art

Reply to
Artemus

"I broke 80 yesterday. That's a lot of clubs to break but I had a good time".

-Henny Youngman

Reply to
Zz Yzx

Been there, drank that, er.... done that.

Use other's suggestion for getting it out and plugging the hole with a dowell. If it's only a No. 4 screw, I think you can get away with re-drilling into the end grain. Just use a real hardwood dowell and drill pilot holes.

-Zz

Reply to
Zz Yzx

Heat the stub with a soldering iron; a drop of solder helps heat transfer. Plug and redrill. The hinge plate will cover the repair.

Reply to
Father Haskell

On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 09:01:37 -0800 (PST), trvlnmny

Several things you might consider. Is the problem screw protruding at all? You could use a Dremel cut off wheel, (or a fine hack saw for that matter) and cut a slot in it. Then use a slotted screwdriver on it. If it's flush with the surface, then the Dremel wheel idea might still work.

If attempting this might irreparably damage your project, then I'd suggest a holesaw just larger than the broken screw, snap out the screw and fill the hole with filler or a plug of some type.

That's about all I can suggest.

Reply to
Dave

I actually bought a plug cutter at the same time, but was too impatient to use it.

Neat idea 'bout the nesting tubing --- how do you get the plugs out of the larger size?

Reply to
willadams

No, no trees or drowning. When they misbehave, they go in the closet. Some have been there for quite some time. The closet is getting fairly full - especially putters...

Reply to
Doug Winterburn

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