How to build pole barn workshop on unlevel site

I'm planning on building a pole barn style woodworking shop. It will be somewhere between 24x36 to 30x40. The area where I want to place the shop has a 1.5' slope from where the front of the shop will be to the back. I'm wondering the best way to fix this.
I've considered pouring a footer around the perimeter and laying a block foundation that will be used to hold the gravel/concrete.
I've also considered just installing the poles and level collars and filling with gravel/concrete inside the collars.
Any suggestions?
Thanks Reggie Nashville, TN
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My garage/shop is 27 feet wide at the back with about a 12" slope from one end to the other. When it was poured, the concrete contractor filled the low end with, well, fill. That was compacted and they poured the concrete. Local codes dictate a 12" minimum footer and a monolithic pour. As it turns out, they did not hit clay when they dug for the footer, so we had to put in 12" diameter piers every 5 feet. Your local codes must be either nonexistent or considerably more lax.
todd
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Reggie Burnett wrote:

I'd use a Bobcat and level the slope.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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[snip]

At the risk of sounding like a smart-ass: level the site. The dozer rental, or as Jack suggested a BobCat, won't be as much as the code will make you spend when you are planning on using a partially exposed foundation.
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Thanks to all who responded. I'm not sure where I'll get the dirt or if I should use all gravel but I'll check into the cost of leveling the site.
Thanks again!
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wrote:

Do your homework! If you're going to pour on it, then use structural fills. Dirt (whatever "dirt" really is...) is not an option. Use overburden (large rock gravel) for the deep fills, and compact it. Use a finer gravel fill (Item 4) for the final 6-8". If you want to get the grade to precise levels, then use a fine screened gravel for the last inch or two. That's not necessary though. You can get 2" and under gravel to a suitable grade for pouring. Don't take shortcuts. Make sure to compact your fills. Fills like this should not go in, in more than about a 1 foot lift. Do it right and you'll end up with a slab that will withstand time. Cheat and you'll have cracks, heaves and other problems for the life of the building.
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-Mike-
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Mike Marlow wrote:

Thanks for the tips! I've done quite a bit of handyman type stuff but never built a building like this. I can use all the tips I can get.
Reggie
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Mike Marlow wrote:

Thanks for the tips! I've done quite a bit of handyman type stuff but never built a building like this. I can use all the tips I can get.
Reggie
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Reggie Burnett wrote:

Take the dirt from the highest spot and put it in the lowest spot. ;-)
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Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Nova wrote:

If only it was that easy. ;)
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wrote:

From a guy who knows nothing (me) this might be a legitimate question. If he cuts into the high side with a hoe or Bobcat shouldn't he provide for drainage that might run to and then into the building? Should he burry perforated drain pipe under stone on that end and route it away from the building? Heck, I'm not even building but I'd like to know. TIA, Chuck
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C & E wrote:

Good question. I had planned to use a backhoe and dig a large drainage ditch on the high side and on both sides of the structure, lay 2-3 drainage lines, and cover with rock. Still, I've been instructed by several not to dig into the high side. Therefore, to level I would need to bring in loads of rock and compact it.
A concrete guy today told me that he could pour a monolithic slab where the fill material doesn't go all the way to to the low side form. The concrete runs down into that area (all the way to the ground) essentially making a short 2' wall there. This would be reinforced of course. still, I'm not certain this is sound engineering.
Reggie
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If I'm understanding this correctly, you mean that at the low side he would just pour deep? There would not be any structural concerns with that as long as the base material is structural. Get rid of any organic materials. But - that's standard operating procedure for any structural pour. I can't see how that would possibly be cheaper than filling with gravel though. Compare the price of a cubic yard of gravel and a cubic yard of concrete.
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Or you could use the Kentucky method: Pour a slab on clay and when it moves or cracks call in a slab jacker....
Jim knows what he's talking about here........

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if you don't need a concrete floor and could go with wood, just put a rim joist fastened to the polls, level from front to back. you know, with a crawl space under the sloped end. ross
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Ross Hebeisen wrote:

shop back in some trees. There's very small trees and brush that I'm clearing away now. Think I need to do anything but saw them off at the ground? I wouldn't want a tree sprouting out and trying to come through my floor. :)
Thanks Reggie
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