I am in the process of finishing up a "refinishing" dinning table. I
am trying to wait for a coat of poly to become fully cured before I
sand it one more time and apply the last thich coat of poly on it (and
then wait another month to rub polish it). Someone comes along sprayed
a coat of pledge lemon spray on it. I am under the impression that
Pledge comes with sillicon and is going to create a "fish eye" problem
when I put on another coat of poly.
My questions are:
- Is this true that Pledge comes with sillicon and is going to become
a problem with another coat of poly finish?
- How should I remove it? Of course, I have already tried using
household cleaner. But I am afraid that this may not be enough.
Please help! Thanks.
Because all of your wood pores are sealed at this point you should be ok.
Wipe the table (silicone oil is oil soluble, not water soluble) with a rag
dampened with mineral spirits. This will dissolve any of the pledge
silicone oil residue. Repeat this process 2-3 times. You should be fine!
(This will NOT effect your poly you already have on the table that is
And that is the thing. The cold weather outside forces me to keep the
window closed. And I can use mineral spirits to clean the table for
only one time in this evening. I will do this again two more times
when the weather becomes nicer. Anyway, I can see that the mineral
spirits is able to remove most if not all the Pledge even after only
one cleaning. Thanks for the good tip.
It's silicon_e_, not sand, or the stuff they make memory chips from.
You don't. Seal it in with a coat of dewaxed shellac, sold in good
paint stores as Zinnser Seal Coat, and apply the poly over it. Zinnser
clear shellac in spray cans is also dewaxed.
Normal Zinnser brush-on clear and orange shellac is NOT dewaxed, so
it's not suitable under polyurethane.
Shellac dries fast and is a bit different to use than a typical
polyurethane varnish. Try it on the underside of the table or scrap
wood to get the hang of it, or spring for the spray cans. If you do
brush it on, you can clean the brush with SLX Denatured Alcohol, or
let it harden and soak it in alcohol before the next use. Most
disposable foam brushes are also suitable for applying seal coat.
Apply a coat of shellac, let dry a few hours, then apply the first
coat of poly. After the poly dries for a day or two, _lightly_ scuff
it with 400 grit sand paper and a sanding block, remove the dust with
a tack rag, and apply the finish coat.
A little off subject but not much. Many years ago when Pledge with lemon oil
first came out and Deft (the prefered poly in my area at the time) was just
beginning to be used you could not mix them. Even after many days of drying
and a good coat of Johnsons the Pledge would strip the Deft right off the
furniture. I and several of my fellow students found this out the hard way.
We had just finished projects for a class and before turning them over to
the Profs for grading we Pledged them. Finishes went all splotchy and
spotty where the Pledge had removed the finish. Have tried Pledge with
lemon oil since then and it doesn't seem to cause a problem but it sure did
when pledge first came out.
Deft is most famous for brushing lacquer. Lacquer is redissolved by
solvent. Varnishes, including polyurethane varnishes, go through a
chemical reaction when they cure and are not able to be redissolved by
their original solvent.
Could the product that original Pledge was removing actually have been
Deft lacquer and not a polyurethane varnish at all, hence the confusion
No this was definitely a poly. Deft had provided it to the University for
testing. And test it we did, this was the latest and greatest finish out
there and we tried everything with it. Spraying, air drying, Micro waving
(you should have seen the microwave, home made by the eng, dept. you could
put a small table in it.), baking, pressure injecting the works. Those were
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