Ron - even though I do finishing as part of my professional routine, I find that the differences in veneers, sources of veneers, outgassing from the underlying glues, and the mystery woods they use to clad the core make it a challenge even with good technique. It almost seems like it doesn't matter where the plywood comes from or what name is stamped on it.
I hate to add a step, but I think it is worthwhile. My customers won't pay for something they think is substandard ( I wouldn't either !! ) so I need to get it right.
I am a big proponent of NOT sanding beyond 220, and more of a fan of concentrating on technique. But desperate materials require desperate measures.
- **Lightly** sand to 320. While I have never seen the need to this point to do so (and been critical of those that piss away the time because they don't want to start finishing), I have found success using 320 with the softer veneers of unknown woods used to make cab ply. 320 generally smooths the older hardwoods too much to provide great traction, but we can counteract that
- Use a conditioner to lightly treat the wood before coloring
- Color the wood with oil or solvent based colors, NOT water based, and allow to dry completely
- Apply a very thin (but thick enough to cover with no voids) coat of dewaxed shellac or as available sanding sealer. This is NOT a sanding coat, but builds a bondable substrate. I cut the Bullseye sanding sealer down by as much as 50% and simply spray it on
- Carefully sand any nibs, NOT the whole piece. Wipe the sandpaper across it if you get ripple, but do not sand industriously as your surface should be smooth before you start this process
- Apply your top coat of your finish as normal
I have tried and tried to use water borne finishes, and while they are fine in some cases, they aren't as reliable as the solvent based finishes. This is not a failure of the product as much as it is the challenges presented by the material to be finished.
I want repeatability. While some of the waterborne finishes are outstanding (ML Campbell, Sherwin Williams, Varathane, etc.) I don't find them to be as forgiving as solvent based. And the big selling point to using latex is the fact that it is easier to cleanup and has less fumes. That is total bullshit. While they *might* expulse less gasses, they gasses they do (formaldehyde, ammonias, etc.) are just as dangerous as any solvent. Since I wear a mask and gloves for most of my finishing (everyone should) I figure since I am already uncomfortable, I don't need to do it twice.
Good luck with your project. And as always, practice on a scrap, not your project.
Robert