Home Depot 1/4" Lag Screw

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I tightened up a 1/4" lag screw that I bought from Home Depot earlier this evening. It was screwed into 1.5" fir after pre-drilling with a 1/8" pilot hole.
After it bottomed out, I turned it just a little bit more, holding a 3/8" ratchet handle close to the shaft, not out on the handle. I wasn't giving it much torque, just making sure that it was secure, when it turned to butter.
It was less torque tha I have used in the past to tighten drywall screws.
Here is the result:
http://i45.tinypic.com/35i981s.jpg
On the plus side, it was really easy to drill a little hole in the piece that is still left in the wood (the hole is for the EZ out).
I'm actually glad that this came apart on me; at least I know to get some halfway decent ones now before something failed with more catastrophic results.
Be careful what you build with the fasteners you buy from the bulk bin at Home Depot.
Jon
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Even better, don't buy fasteners at Home Depot. If you want quality, go to an industrial supply house or order from McFeelys.com
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Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I called McFeelys and all Fasteners they sell are made in CHINA
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wrote:

I'm pretty sure that all of the standard fasteners at HD are made of quite soft metal. I have run into the same problem using lag screws on deck framing. If they get a little warm from friction, the heads twist right off. HD have some hardened bolts, but they are as expensive as if you had bought them at Fastenal. I agree that HD is not the place to buy fasteners - aside from the fact that HD charges quite a lot for their fasteners.
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Andrew wrote:

And their "bin" machine screws are Grade 2 not Grade 5... who uses Grade 2 for anything?
nate
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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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Quite obviously, HD customers that don't know better. <wry grin>
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On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 03:41:39 -0800, Andrew wrote:

I've found it's worth checking them rather than blindly picking them up - I've seen screws from different places that are listed as the same thing, but sometimes they have narrower shafts and are prone to shearing. Thankfully my local farm supply place seems to be consistently good...
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Jon Danniken wrote:

Around here, Tractor Supply has pretty good fasteners, including grade 8 if your function calls for that. Farmers don't like to do the same repair job twice, I guess. -- aem sends...
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Yeah, grade 8 in a lag screw is probabably not going to exist. You will not see a farmer using a lag screw to repair a tractor, I hope. LOL
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Of course not. It's like any other business: having machinery down costs money. At harvest time, a down machine can cost _a lot_ of money.
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wrote:

And there are liability issue concernes. A good mechanic will use grade 8 or better so that when he is preplacing a bolt it is at least as strong as the original. I was stocking grade 8, 30 years ago for automotive repairs at an Olds dealership.
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Leon wrote:

Be careful using Grade 8. They're strong but they're also brittle. Don't use them for applications where there are likely to be shock loads.
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J. Clarke wrote:

You mean like Cylinder Heads?
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evodawg wrote:

If your cylinder heads are subject to shock loading then you have bigger problems than broken head bolts.
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wrote:

Same here, and TS sells their hardware by the pound. It's always where I go first. I just bought a boatload of grade 2 & 5 carriage bolts, nuts, washers, etc. for around $8 ($1.99/lb). The grade 8 are a little more expensive if you need them, but not unreasonable.
I was at Lowes later for something else, so just did a quick double check to see how far off they were. Grade 1 bolts alone were nearly $15.
8 (1/2 x4) = $8.80 ($1.10 each). 4 (1/2 x6) = $6.00 ($1.50 each).
The irony is that I'm using a plan I found at Lowes.
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Indeed, the mark of a good hardware store is where you CAN by stuff by the pound.
--
EA



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BTW: Using a drill gauge for sizing! We use a card with various holes in it, originally designed we think for sizing knitting needles? But the holes are marked in metric on one side and on the other in 64ths, 32nds etc. Very useful.
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wrote:

And what diameter would that be, since lags are tapered? And if there were such a diameter, you would mean "root diameter" or minor diameter -- right?
But that's ok.... I'm sure the concept of conventional vs climb cutting is going to take another few weeks to properly gel in your brain -- all this other stuff will come in due time. Heh, mebbe you can study with yer buddee RicodJour.

Altho ahm no 'spert on wood, I doubt that the pilot hole should be exactly a root diameter (if there were one) for wood. After all, yer not tapping the wood like metal. Mebbe there is a woodworker's equiv to Machinery's Handbook that has this spec -- heh, mebbe even Machinery's handbook has it!
I'm sure there has to be some compression of the wood fibre, for adequate strength, when drilling pilots. 1/8" actually sounds about right.
--
EA



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Snip

I have never seen a tapered lag screw unless it was "very" short, and the diameter you are looking for is the "body" diameter as described by McFeeleys screw sizing chart.

Actually you do want the pilot hole the same size as the body diameter.

You only want the threads cutting into the wood, 1/8" is too small.
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On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:03:04 -0500, "Existential Angst"

The 27th Edition lists the root diameter of a 1/4" lag bolt as .173".
The next natural drill size is .187, or 3/16".
Regards,
Tom Watson http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 /
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