I have a piece that is about 1 3/8 inches in diameter and I want to hollow
it out about 1/4inch deep on the end. I began spindle turning the piece,
but now i need to hollow out the end and don't know how to mount it so I can
I can't mount it to a face plate.
I don't have enough base wood for a tenon.
I think my only option is to mount it on scrap wood that is screwed to the
1) I have some tuner's tape. Will that hold it or do I need to get some CA
2) Also, how do I get it centered on the scrap wood?
3) Is there another option?
One other option could be just to drill press the end, which I may do, but I
want to make 3 other pieces like this (these are chess rooks) and want to do
it right from the beginning so I don't have to remount it. I also want to
be prepared for turning pawns.
I appreciate your help.
All you need is a straight hole? Use a drillpress and make yourself a
simple jig to hold your turned piece perfectly verticle. Mark the center
point and I'd probably use a center-point bit so it'll hit that mark and
drill fairly straight.
You don't want to do this on the lathe. It's not worth the effort if this
is, indeed, what you are trying to accomplish.
If, however, you are wanting to hollow it out, for example, then using a
waste block and gluing it on there is the best method. I make a lot of
miniature & micro hollowforms and use this method.
1) Either use a scrollchuck, faceplate or whatever method you want and
attach a piece of waste wood. I use scrap maple.
2) Once it's held on the lathe by whatever choice, flatten the face of it
with an ever so slight dip nearing the center of it. This is to give a
little extra glue a place to be under the center of the turning.
3) With a pencil, hold it against this wasteblock face as it's spinning and
mark circles. These will help with centering.
4) Use CA glue on the bottom of the turned piece. If you want to speed
things up, use CA accelerator on the wasteblock.
5) Center the piece on the wasteblock and push them together. Hold this a
little while until the glue sets up.
6) If you're concerned that it's not going to hold, use some CA around the
outside of the joint between the turned piece and the wasteblock. Make sure
the CA is hard because, if not, it'll shoot out and spray you as you turn
the lathe on.
Make a modestly tapered depression in your scrap on the faceplate to receive
your piece. The piece will automatically center, though you will have to
make sure the face is perpendicular to the axis of rotation if the piece
itself doesn't provide a flat spot for mounting.
I like hot glue for stuff like this.
Option "B" is to mount an end-grain piece of scrap on your faceplate,
leaving it square on the edges and proud of the plate. This can be a
lamination of 2x timber. Turn a well in the scrap of the proper size for
your pieces, then, minding _carefully_ where the screws are, kerf it at 90
degrees nearly to the faceplate with your thickest kerf saw.
Go back to the lathe and turn the exterior round, with a bit of a lip on the
outer edge. Use a hose clamp of suitable size to compress your new chuck and
hold the pieces.
Be sure and trim any real excess off the end of the clamp, or you can get a
nasty cut. DAMHIKT.
Matt wrote: I have a piece that is about 1 3/8 inches in diameter and I want
to hollow it out about 1/4inch deep on the end(clip)
Holding it in a chuck would work, but would most likely leave jaw-marks on
the piece. To overcome that, I would turn a wooden sleeve that is a close
fit to the outside of the rook, and hold the sleeve in the chuck.
The pressure of the jaws will transmit through the sloeeve, and hold the
If you don't have a chuck, you could mount a piece of scrapwood on your
faceplate, and turn a projecting sleeve on it, pointing toward the
tailstock. Insert the rook, and use a hose clamp hold it.
I don't know whether I would trust double-faced tape to hold such a small
area. But, if you turn a recess in a piece of wood on your faceplate, that
just fits the bottom of the rook, you could use hot glue to hold it in. Hot
glue holds pretty well, and yet, can be cleaned off with a fingernail
If you have a chuck, turn a scrap piece and drill and or hollow to your
1 3/8", then take it out of your chuck and saw from the outside to the
centre, now insert your piece, chuck it up and turn.
If you do not have a chuck, mound a scrap piece on your face plate, and
again hollow it to fit your piece in, now saw across the centre of your
mounted scrap almost to the faceplate, get or make a hoseclamp that fits
around it, insert your piece tighten clamp and proceed to hollow your piece.
One other thing position the clamp in such a manner that you do not get
caught on it, a piece of tape over it gives some added protection.
hope this is some help to you.
Have fun and take care.
Leo Van Der Loo
I was just messing around with something similar this weekend trying to get
thin rings for inlay. I wanted side grain not end grain. I turned a scrap
of walnut sideways to 1-1/8 then drilled it with a 1" forstner bit 3 inches
deep on the drill press. The lathe center left a nice mark to drill from
and I was amazed at how well it turned out.
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