HF dust collector switch problem

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It's much easier to sit and gently move your legs on a bicycl than to walk the same distance. Cooler too. Ricola is OK, but too expensive. Halls is fine for me.
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Han
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I go with the generics from the local stores. Halls is too expensive. Ricola goes on sale occasionally, so that's when I buy it. Herbal stuff is always more expensive.
-- The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold. -- Glenn Doman
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Used to buy the CVS equivalent. Don't like it. Back to Halls. I've alos just bought some menthol crystals (web, ~$12 for a lifetime supply, 8 oz). Put a pinch in a wide container of near boiling water and sniff the vapors. Instant congestion relief. Menthol (vapors) are the ctive substance in Halls and in Vicks Vaporub, but the steam enhances the relief.
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Han
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Sounds like moisture got the low value switch and the parts /spring broke by corrosion.
Martin
On 8/25/2012 2:16 PM, Leon wrote:

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My basement is fairly dry. I think the switch was low quality, and arcing killed it, but of course my basement in NJ isn't the same as the Arizona desert.
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Han
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Just a wild guess, but could you have installed the relay way back when _because_ the on/off switch felt funny? I've done things like that before, then forgotten why.
-- The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold. -- Glenn Doman
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At the moment, and since installing, the DC is in a far corner, out of the way. The remote is more convenience so I don't have to walk around everything, than the switch feeling funny. I am reorganizing the shop. I may follow the suggestion from someone else here (I forgot whom, sorry!), and put the dang thing more central to reduce piping length.
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Han
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Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by *using* the remote switch.

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.
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wrote:

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon suggested.
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Han
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I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and off)
More later ...
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Han
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Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g. wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not there. I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.

Please.
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wrote:

OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at that, especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the first floor powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet is in place ...
I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?) remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what kind of remote you use (if any). Now I have to make dinner.
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Han
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wrote:

Pictures turned out bad, sorry.
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Han
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Han wrote:

Digital? One of the very nice things about digital is that one knows immediately if they are unsatisfactory; if so, one can immediately do whatever is necessary to retake them in a satisfactory manner.
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dadiOH
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Working in a cramped space. Some looked acceptable when I took them, others I couldn't get better. Description of what I found and did:
The switch on the DC (Harbor freight 2 HP model 45378) looks very sturdy from the outside. I unplugged the machine for a few hours before proceeding, just in case the capacitor would ring my bell (deemed very unlikely by Keith here).
2 screws hold the plate with the switch in place. Unscrewed them.
Lifted the plate and used the end of a screwdriver to release the clips holding the switch. There were 4 wires to the switch, 2 black, 2 white. I removed the wires from the switch. Don't know what the push-on connectors are called.
I opened the switch, and looked at the contacts (it just fell apart when you open it). One of the contacts had at least 1 mm of "crud" on it, presumable from sparking when the switch closed, or power was applied (I had the switch always on "on" and used a remote to apply power).
I threw the bad parts of the switch out. Then I wirenutted the black wires together, as well as the white (to "bypass" the switch). I put the defunct switch into the cover plate to fill the hole in the cover plate, and screwed it back in place on top of the switch "box". Covered it with duct tape to remind myself of the proceedings and prevent any flood waters from getting in (lot of good that'll do in a real flood).
Everything works fine. Thanks for you guys' advice and interest!
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Han
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On 8/25/2012 5:44 PM, Han wrote:

I have a vac with a Phil Thein type separator.. I plumbed all my small tools. I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns on. I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape... works well.
I stopped using both my wireless remote control, and old style pull cord in cieling after building the wired system.

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tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in

That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the moment (semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final places. That makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long Ranger (110V version) to go back to.

That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with limited electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you care to explain more, please?
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Han
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On 8/26/2012 9:27 AM, Han wrote:

I'll take a picture.. piece of cake.
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On 8/26/2012 9:27 AM, Han wrote:

Han see my images at http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0
All the brass is, is sheet brass cut with a scissor and soldered to wire. The brass can be had at Ace Hardware or a hobby shop.
The aluminum tape is basically tape for sealing HVAC ducts. The rest should be self explanatory.
This wires into a relay so the wires are all low voltage. The relay is what trips the 120VAC..
My gates are self cleaning, it works, occasionaly I have to touch the brass to bend it out.. but I didn't spend a lot and I didn't want dust to mess with the micro switches. This works as well or better.
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tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in

Thanks! link is bookmarked, but I may not even need it anymore. Indeed simple.
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Han
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