hardwood floor

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Fixin' to lay about a 3x4 foot landing with red oak hardwood i have created myself with a pen knife, bic lighter and a #55 stanley plane. (and if you believe that.....) Actually, my question is, do I need anything between the oak and the OSB subfloor? I plan to tongue nail it with my 16 ga finish nailer.
thanks
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Steve Barker
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On 4/24/12 12:51 PM, Steve Barker wrote:

Just tack down either one of the many special purpose flooring papers, or you could just use a piece of roofing paper. It will help to keep the floor quieter.
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On Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:51:12 PM UTC-4, Steve Barker wrote:

I'm not a pro in this area, but Tom Silva of Ask TOH stapled down a layer of flooring paper underneath the wood flooring. He has a video on line of the installation. JoeG
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On 4/24/2012 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:

Unequivocal, no further questions, don't give a damn what anyone else says:
!ALWAYS PUT A MOISTURE BARRIER BENEATH A HARDWOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION!
IOW, it's mandatory. :)
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On 4/24/2012 3:10 PM, Swingman wrote:

thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll be procuring a small amount of something for underlayment.
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On Tue, 24 Apr 2012 15:39:15 -0500, Steve Barker wrote:

A scrap of linoleum would work well.
basilisk
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On 4/24/2012 4:15 PM, basilisk wrote:

THAT, i have. Thanks for the suggestion.
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On 4/24/12 11:51 AM, Steve Barker wrote:

There are several different papers and foam underlayments available depending on the type/technology of hardwood and what you're putting it on. Some have vapor barriers, some do better on uneven subfloors. All of them will quiet down the creaking of the floor from differences in expansion/contraction and simple rubbing together when walked upon.
A specialty flooring store should be able to recommend the correct one for your specific application.
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-MIKE-

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On 4/24/2012 3:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

thanks for the reply. I won't be going to the flooring store. I have stated that i'm putting red oak over osb, so i didn't think there was any missing information. I could add that I've already doused the flooring with boiled linseed oil 50/50 with thinner.
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Information missing:
- What is the OSB covering? Concrete slab? Basement? Crawl Space? Bare dirt?
And why would you douse the flooring with BLO?
scott
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On 4/24/2012 3:59 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:

it's a raised (15") landing at the foot of my stairs. 2x4's and 2x6's underneath and then the main plywood floor. All my red oak gets BLO first. As suggested in THIS group. And i love the result.
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BLO does provide a nice appearance but it, itself, won't hold up to foot traffic for long.
I am building a little rocking doll crib for a friend to give as a gift. I gave it a long, wiping wet coat of BLO instead of stain. The color is somewhat similar to natural stain, but the grain character is much more pleasing - at least to my eye. But now I am adding 3-4 coats of wiping poly and I might top with a coat of wax.
RonB
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On 4/24/2012 5:32 PM, RonB wrote:

oh, i guess i should further explain. It was recommended i use the BLO to bring the red out and pop the grain. Then it was suggested to use wax free shellac to seal then poly. I have experimented and am quite impressed with the results. I've got a board laying on the floor where it get all the household traffic i've applied BLO, then a quick once over with the 220, two coats of wax free shellac, then 220'd it, and applied FIVE coats of oil based poly floor finish with a quick 220 in between each of the coats. It is down right beautiful.
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On 4/24/12 3:37 PM, Steve Barker wrote:

I'm saying that a call to a flooring specialty store with this same information might yield good results. There is new stuff coming out all the time that could save some time and/or money and give a better end result than the old red paper that seems to be the old school standard. Of course, the old red paper under solid hardwood might still be the best thing.
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You probably want something under it to control moisture from below and muffle squeaks a bit. A fairly standard, and inexpensive underlayment for hardwood is rolled roofing felt. I would hate to buy a full roll for this size but it will probably only cost $15-18 ............. unless, like me, you have a half used roll buried in the shed somewhere.
Also, a regular flooring nailer with "Christmas Tree" flooring nails will provide a tighter attachment. Again, kind of expensive to rent unless someone you know has one. The 16ga nails will be a little light for a surface that gets a lot of foot traffic.
RonB
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On 4/24/2012 4:00 PM, RonB wrote:

It will see very little traffic, but i am considering hand nailing with 6d or 8d finish nails after predrilling.
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Need something with a barb on it.
16Ga will likely end up squeaking, badly, after woods of unequal expansions age.
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It will see very little traffic, but i am considering hand nailing with 6d or 8d finish nails after predrilling.
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On 4/24/2012 11:05 PM, m II wrote:

are you thinking ring shank? I don't really remember seeing any finish nails with ring shank. But I haven't looked yet.
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On 4/25/2012 9:53 AM, Steve Barker wrote: ...

No, but there is a hardened spiral shank flooring nail as well as the old cut flooring nail (similar to, but _not_ a masonry nail; they're thinner profile).
I'd suggest one or the other over a standard finish nail certainly, especially into subflooring rather than into joists.
<www.grip-rite.com/files/GRfullCatalog.pdf>
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On 4/25/2012 10:12 AM, dpb wrote:

thanks. i'm going to the orange box tomorrow. I'll see if they have them.
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