G&G Dartboard Cabinet

My latest project. A G&G inspired dartboard cabinet from cherry. A fun build.
Pics:(all the way at the bottom 4-images) http://www.garagewoodworks.com/projectspage1.php
Build Video part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhWpsaP2ccA

part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBWE7k_Ra8w&

part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtTH6y97BDI

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On 9/10/13 7:05 PM, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

Pros: Looks great... beautiful and well built. Cons: Hinges... hidden hinges would've looked much better, IMO.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On Tuesday, September 10, 2013 8:18:24 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:

Thank you.

I agree. It's funny you say that because my wife wanted hidden hinges as well. I looked at some and couldn't find any local that opened 180 degrees or close to it. I saw some online but they were pricey.
Thanks again!

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On 9/10/2013 7:26 PM, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

]
Very nice Brian!
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On Tuesday, September 10, 2013 5:05:26 PM UTC-7, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

Wow, the guy has talent!
Excellent design. Very true to G&G with a little modern flare. I love the inclusion of the sap\bark\mineral lines and I think I also see a crack near the bottom of one panel,which I think is fantastic. Really. Very nicely done.
A few Q's 1. Your design? 2. Does it have a finish applied? If so what is it with details of how it was applied.
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On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 12:46:51 PM UTC-4, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Yes. I have the SketchUp available for download if you'd like it.

I used a mix of 1:1:1 Tung oil, varnish, and mineral spirits. Applied a generous coat and wiped off the excess X2. Hit the panels lightly w/ steel wool 0000 after a few days.
No cracks in the panels. I did get very lucky when resawing for the panels with the mineral lines/pitch lines. The lines ran most of the board and both panels were resawn/bookmatched from the same board and match end to end.
Thank you!
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it was applied.

generous coat and wiped off the excess X2. Hit the panels lightly w/ steel wool 0000 after a few days.

ls with the mineral lines/pitch lines. The lines ran most of the board and both panels were resawn/bookmatched from the same board and match end to e nd.

Great work on the design.
I like the finish and it exhibits the same characteristics I see when I hav e used a similar approach. I have used Tung, Turp and Varnish. What I found was after the fist coat, the oil was essentially useless in the mix. You d on't get any more penetration after the initial coat that includes the varn ish.
I have moved back to a few coats of oil first, then a long dry time (week o r two) then a light varnish, shellac or lacquer depending on the needs. Hec k even wipe on poly sometimes.
I also have found that I want to add some level of color (usually dye). Thi s is a must for any Oak, maybe never for Maple and Cherry falls in the midd le. Oak will actually fade unless you have some base color, even a "natural " almost clear color. Cherry will darken so not such an issue. However, I f ind using a light wash of vintage maple or something warm like that even a reddish or brownish helps set a deeper look right from the start and makes the natural darkening more predictable.
Just some of my experience and no negative reflection on your beautiful wor k. The best I've seen from you for my personal taste. Looks like perfect ex ecution also. I think you are on your way to a "Master" designation.
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On Wednesday, September 11, 2013 1:27:52 PM UTC-4, SonomaProducts.com wrote :

w it was applied.

a generous coat and wiped off the excess X2. Hit the panels lightly w/ ste el wool 0000 after a few days.

nels with the mineral lines/pitch lines. The lines ran most of the board a nd both panels were resawn/bookmatched from the same board and match end to end.

ave used a similar approach. I have used Tung, Turp and Varnish. What I fou nd was after the fist coat, the oil was essentially useless in the mix. You don't get any more penetration after the initial coat that includes the va rnish.

or two) then a light varnish, shellac or lacquer depending on the needs. H eck even wipe on poly sometimes.

his is a must for any Oak, maybe never for Maple and Cherry falls in the mi ddle. Oak will actually fade unless you have some base color, even a "natur al" almost clear color. Cherry will darken so not such an issue. However, I find using a light wash of vintage maple or something warm like that even a reddish or brownish helps set a deeper look right from the start and make s the natural darkening more predictable.

I noticed that too. After the first coat the mix just sat there. I like y our approach with using the oil first. I'll have to play with that.

ork. The best I've seen from you for my personal taste. Looks like perfect execution also. I think you are on your way to a "Master" designation.
Thank you. That really means a lot. In fact I think you made my day :)
Cheers
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