I just purchased the Forrest Woodworker II 10", 40-Tooth, 1.8" kerf
Blade from Amazon - 15% off - around $82. Almost all the reviews were
fantastic, but now i am wondering if I got the right blade.
Can you really use this for both cross cutting and ripping - and get a
mirror finish while doing so? I am concerned that a 40 tooth blade can't
do all that it is claimed to do.
It hasn't shipped yet, so I can still cancel. I make furniture and
cabinets as a hobby, and am ready for a very good blade for my
Powermatic 60 table saw. Any comments would be welcome.
You will love the blade and as Swingman commented you will probably get
another like I did so that you will not be with out one while the other is
being sharpened. I highly suggest using Forrest to resharpen the blade.
No more changing blades for different tasks 99.5% of the time.
When my Forrest was new, "mirror finish" wasn't a bad way to describe what
it left behind. My wife commented on it when I handed her some pieces she'd
asked to be cut. "What'd you do to them?" "Nothing. That's fresh off the
saw." "Oh. THAT'S why you bought that blade."
It's probably wan't really a mirror finish because you couldn't really see
yourself in it. But it sure was glass-smooth.
Since then it hasn't become dull enough to need to send out to Forrest but
now the edges are "only" crisp and smooth.
My friend uses one and his only comment was why didn't he buy one sooner !
He also does hobby woodworking. He used Forrest when he thought it needed
to be resharpened. Said it came back good as new. I'm currently saving my
pennies to make the plunge.
Yes, you did. My getting a WWII was a major breakthrough. First was
getting rid of my Sears and getting a Unisaw, then the blade and, last,
getting a Unifence.
Mirror finish? No, you won't see your reflection, but you can usually
glue without jointing. If I have a lot of ripping to do, I'll switch to
a thin kerf Freud rip blade, but for occasional ripping and
crosscutting, the WWII fills the bill excellently. Get it --- you won't
Joel if you ever have to joint after ripping you may have an adjustment
problem. Not getting a mirror shinny reflective finish may also be an
indicator that you say may not be set up as good as it could be.
I don't joint, but I notice on Norm's shows that he does. My saw is
adjusted fine --- I use an "A-Line-It" (got it from Woodcraft) to keep
both my blade and fence dead on.
Maybe we're talking about different shiny. I can't comb my hair by
looking at my reflection in the wood. The wood is smooth --- As the old
timers said when I was a kid: "Smoother than the inside of a maiden's
I don't get reflection good enough to comb my hair either but I do get color
reflection off of near by objects and I see 2 white streaks reflected from
the 2 florescent bulbs hanging from the ceiling if I hold the edge just
I have used them for a year now for 99% of all my cuts. I did buy a second one
to use when I had one sharpen. The sharpening service is one reason I like the
blades as I chipped a tooth on one and the repair was great. I even use a
Forrest woodworker 12" on my miter saw now.
I am using that same blade. When new, it will do everything Forrest
claims it will. Prior to the Forrest I used a top-of-the-line Oldham
that cut just as well when new, but the Forrest has cut (estimated)
twice as much wood now as the Oldham did before the Oldham needed
resharpening, and I'm not quire ready to have the Forrest resharpened
yet. YMMV of course.
All I can say is "Wow!". Thanks for all the comments. I certainly feel
*much* better now about my purchase. I have had my powermatic with Bes
fence for some years now, though it was in storage for several of them.
Now that I am actively working it again, I am ready for the upgrade.
Now if I can just wait for the Amazon 'free' shipping...
I have to put my 2 cents in here. I'm probably the only guy on this
newsgroup who doesnt like the Forrest blade. It sits on my shelf.
I bought one several years ago. At first it cut just great, just like
everyone says here. Then after a few months and not too many cuts, I
noticed it getting harder and harder to push a piece of wood through
it. Also, the wood that I ripped tended to burn. I figured it was
either getting dull, or had sap buildup..
So I de-gunked the blade, but it didnt help. Then I sent it back to
Forrest for sharpening. It came back and once again, performed like
it did when new.
Until about a month later when it started to get hard to push wood
through it and rip cuts started to burn. Mind you, I'm a weekend
woodcutter so it only had about 8 days of cutting on it in this
I gave up at that point and put a Freud blade on and havent had a spot
of trouble since and its been over a year.
So my experience may be atypical or I may have gotten a bum blade, or
I dont know how to use a saw, but all I know is I had nothing but
problems with it. One of these days I may put it back on and try
again, but I'm in no hurry.
Oh, this was on a Delta Unisaw.
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