Forrest WWII blade

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I just purchased the Forrest Woodworker II 10", 40-Tooth, 1.8" kerf Blade from Amazon - 15% off - around $82. Almost all the reviews were fantastic, but now i am wondering if I got the right blade.
Can you really use this for both cross cutting and ripping - and get a mirror finish while doing so? I am concerned that a 40 tooth blade can't do all that it is claimed to do.
It hasn't shipped yet, so I can still cancel. I make furniture and cabinets as a hobby, and am ready for a very good blade for my Powermatic 60 table saw. Any comments would be welcome.
Thanks, Harvey
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"eclipsme" wrote in message

Prediction: you will like it so much you will buy another at some point in the future because you won't want to be without while one is being re-sharpened from being used so much.
--
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eclipsme wrote:

I use a 24T for rip, a 50T for combo, & an 80T for ply.
I'm happy.
YMMV
BTW, rip a mostly 8/4 hard maple & white oak. Both are tough.
Lew
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Yes, mine does all that. I mostly cut 4/4 oak, 3/4 plywood, etc. Jim

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You will love the blade and as Swingman commented you will probably get another like I did so that you will not be with out one while the other is being sharpened. I highly suggest using Forrest to resharpen the blade. No more changing blades for different tasks 99.5% of the time.
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No blade will give you a mirror finish on wood.

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When my Forrest was new, "mirror finish" wasn't a bad way to describe what it left behind. My wife commented on it when I handed her some pieces she'd asked to be cut. "What'd you do to them?" "Nothing. That's fresh off the saw." "Oh. THAT'S why you bought that blade."
It's probably wan't really a mirror finish because you couldn't really see yourself in it. But it sure was glass-smooth.
Since then it hasn't become dull enough to need to send out to Forrest but now the edges are "only" crisp and smooth.
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<...snipped...>
Have to disagree there. I've got quite a few blades that do. (They were all made by Stanley)
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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Swing on by my house Frank. I'll show you a mirror reflective finish that I can see the color of my truck in.
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My friend uses one and his only comment was why didn't he buy one sooner ! He also does hobby woodworking. He used Forrest when he thought it needed to be resharpened. Said it came back good as new. I'm currently saving my pennies to make the plunge.

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Yes, you did. My getting a WWII was a major breakthrough. First was getting rid of my Sears and getting a Unisaw, then the blade and, last, getting a Unifence.

Mirror finish? No, you won't see your reflection, but you can usually glue without jointing. If I have a lot of ripping to do, I'll switch to a thin kerf Freud rip blade, but for occasional ripping and crosscutting, the WWII fills the bill excellently. Get it --- you won't regret it.
Joel
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I can do that with a $25.00 Craftsman blade. That's not a qualifier.

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Joel if you ever have to joint after ripping you may have an adjustment problem. Not getting a mirror shinny reflective finish may also be an indicator that you say may not be set up as good as it could be.
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I don't joint, but I notice on Norm's shows that he does. My saw is adjusted fine --- I use an "A-Line-It" (got it from Woodcraft) to keep both my blade and fence dead on.

Maybe we're talking about different shiny. I can't comb my hair by looking at my reflection in the wood. The wood is smooth --- As the old timers said when I was a kid: "Smoother than the inside of a maiden's thigh."
Joel
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I don't get reflection good enough to comb my hair either but I do get color reflection off of near by objects and I see 2 white streaks reflected from the 2 florescent bulbs hanging from the ceiling if I hold the edge just right.
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I have used them for a year now for 99% of all my cuts. I did buy a second one to use when I had one sharpen. The sharpening service is one reason I like the blades as I chipped a tooth on one and the repair was great. I even use a Forrest woodworker 12" on my miter saw now.

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I am using that same blade. When new, it will do everything Forrest claims it will. Prior to the Forrest I used a top-of-the-line Oldham that cut just as well when new, but the Forrest has cut (estimated) twice as much wood now as the Oldham did before the Oldham needed resharpening, and I'm not quire ready to have the Forrest resharpened yet. YMMV of course.
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Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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eclipsme wrote:

All I can say is "Wow!". Thanks for all the comments. I certainly feel *much* better now about my purchase. I have had my powermatic with Bes fence for some years now, though it was in storage for several of them. Now that I am actively working it again, I am ready for the upgrade.
Now if I can just wait for the Amazon 'free' shipping...
Harvey
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wrote:

I have to put my 2 cents in here. I'm probably the only guy on this newsgroup who doesnt like the Forrest blade. It sits on my shelf.
I bought one several years ago. At first it cut just great, just like everyone says here. Then after a few months and not too many cuts, I noticed it getting harder and harder to push a piece of wood through it. Also, the wood that I ripped tended to burn. I figured it was either getting dull, or had sap buildup..
So I de-gunked the blade, but it didnt help. Then I sent it back to Forrest for sharpening. It came back and once again, performed like it did when new.
Until about a month later when it started to get hard to push wood through it and rip cuts started to burn. Mind you, I'm a weekend woodcutter so it only had about 8 days of cutting on it in this period.
I gave up at that point and put a Freud blade on and havent had a spot of trouble since and its been over a year.
So my experience may be atypical or I may have gotten a bum blade, or I dont know how to use a saw, but all I know is I had nothing but problems with it. One of these days I may put it back on and try again, but I'm in no hurry.
Oh, this was on a Delta Unisaw.
Dickm
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Snip

Sounds like you got a Forrest lemon.
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