...and I thought I was the only one. I got a used WWII with a saw I
bought. I already owned a Frued TK906. Given all that I had heard
about the Forrest, I sent this one in for a resharpening. I can't say
it is a bad blade, but it is no better than the Frued TK906 (not even
a top-o-the line Frued). I have had both now for a couple years and I
use the Frued more often than the Forrest. To me the WWII is a good
blade that is over priced.
The only problem I have now, I love my Forrest WWII, is I DO change my
blade MORE often! This is because I save my Forrest blade by constantly
switching to a cheap carbide blade when cutting everyday chores. If I
am ripping tomatoe stakes out of old 2 X 4's for instance I don't keep
the Forrest in the saw. I guess I could have the nicest, smoothest
tomatoe stakes in the area but I'll stick with sawmarks and keep the
"good" blade from the re-sharpening shop, (Forrest's), for awhile
www.alisam.com , "A-LEE-SAM"
Home of the Sharpening Sled
In my opinion, you get much better results using a seperate ripping
blade for ripping, and a seperate blade for plywood/cross cutting. I do
very little crosscutting on the table saw (use miter box). Although I
will point out that I'm using a contractor's saw. On a 3 HP cabinent
saw, maybe a combination blade does a good enough job ripping.
It takes maybe 45 seconds to swap out a blade, don't see what the big
I use a Freud ripping blade, and I can glue up right from that, unless
cutting the wood causes some internal stresses that cause it to bend a
little after the cut, but you'll have that problem no matter what blade
I used to think that way. I had a good combo blade on a contractors saw and
had a 12" miter saw station. When I upgraded to a Jet cabinet saw I went
with the Forrest WWII and completely quit using the miter saw all together.
I only change the Forrest when I send it for resharpening or to cut dados.
Not a big deal unless it is not necessary. I would be changing many times a
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