I want one
*jumping up and down*
I want one!!
$10,000 smackeroonies..wow..that's a lot of pointy story sticks.
I get excited sometimes.
Rob--->who had seen one before but didn't know how reasonable they were.*gags*
I've been describing just this to anyone who can stand to
Yahbut, it'll come down in price..., some day.
And me also.
My dream rig involves a pointer and a 'puter. Put the
'puter some where near by and walk about the room shoving
the pointer into every corner, nook and cranny, up, down and
left to right.
End of the day, field dimensions in all three axis.
I have made some headway with a make-shift method.
I paste 1/4" yellow Avery Dots (little labels/markers) all over an
existing countertop. I also place a framer-style square on the counter.
I have painted it yellow.
I take a digital photograph.
In Photoshop, I get rid of all the colours 'cept yellow. Export to
(By now, I have about 15 minutes invested)
Then I draw a 24" x 16" L-shape on a transparent fore-ground.
I then distort the picture of the dots, in the back-ground till the
squares match. That gives me my 'known' base.
I connect the dots with the pen tool and export .DWG to Vectorworks
where I dimension the drawing.
(By now, I have about 1 hour invested.)
The 1/2 a dozen times I tried it, I was within 1" initially and later
closer to 1/4" (compared to actual measurements).
The biggest issue is that my Nikon CoolPix 885 has pin-cushion
distortion at wide angles, so big countertops are a PITA.
Maybe I need a better camera??? Ohhh the pain!! Can't you just feel the
Rob---->who is sticking to his luan strip templates for those paying jobs, because they work.
Hot melt or screws?
My problem is the things I need to field measure/verify are
usually a couple/few states away making the dragging of
templates somewhat cumbersome.
Now, an electronic pointy stick, that's the bomb.
1/8" x 2 7/8" x 8' luan. Then I stack them and chop-saw 25" of the stack.
Those are my counter 'depth' pieces. (One of my guys likes 1/8" MDF
better "because it is not so 'slivery'"....wimp.) Sometimes, when I do
an 'elevated' template ( on top of an existing counter ) I make blocks,
about 3" high and hot-melt them along the front of the existing counter.
The knock off easily after templating. That way you get to scribe the
back wall on top of the back splash.
The back of the counter I scribe with a Sharpie (gives me 1/4" offset)
I assemble the template with a couple 3-M poly guns (hot-melt)
Then, in strategic places, I cut the templates with 3" aviation snips and
mark the template with all the important info..sink location, radius
corners, finished edges etc. I also mark where all the gables are so I
make sure there won't be a seam over the dishwasher...NEVER put a seam
over the dishwasher. I include the overhang of the counter top in my
template. (I used to do the cabinets only...some people just can't add 1
1/2".) I end up with chunks of template <60" so they fit in my trunk
(back seat down)
I re-assemble in the shop. You end up with something that looks like
On big jobs, like a U-shape, I take a reference measurement across the
'mouth' of the u-shape, just to make sure I get it right when
re-assembling the template.
Then I jigsaw the scribed line and trace it onto the new counter
(keeping the 1/4" offset in mind.)
These types of templates are fabulous for all kinds of things..like
bathroom floors.sub floor cuts and even finished flooring...full height
back splashes are another application where they shine..electrical plug
locations, window sills etc..nice system.
Telescoping 3-D pointy stick...*drools*
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