One of the maple boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection. I t's a thin -- maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about 1/
16th of an inch deep. I recall reading that some folks fill such imperfect ions with CA glue. What's the process? What impact does this have on fini shing (assuming use of a wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions?TIA
Larry
On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:37:58 -0800 (PST), "Gramp's shop"
a thin -- maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about 1/16th of an inch deep. I recall reading that some folks fill such imperfections with CA glue. What's the process? What impact does this have on finishing (assuming use of a wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions?
I'd suggest using one of these to fill your scar. I have a set and frequently use one of them to fill indentations larger than your 1/16" scar.
use one of them to fill indentations larger than your 1/16" scar.
I picked up a set, plus some, of these wax sticks and other items, at a retired clock repairman's garage sale, for $2.
You can also use shellac or lacquer sticks, to fill those damages or imperfections. I've never used lacquer sticks, but have used shellac sticks, as I have a set, plus some, of these, also.
Sonny
Can you turn the board over? If not, there are various ways to fill it. In no particular order...
b) white glue: make a thick paste of sanding and saw dust mixed with equal parts of glue and water, press in and over fill, let dry, sand. When flush, wipe on a very thin coat of glue and sand immediately. Doing the latter seems to stick a very thin layer on non-glue saturated sawdust that will finish very close to the unblemished wood.
Any of these should work OK with an oil finish.
Is this a "natural defect" or man made damage? If a natural defect such as a bark inclusion or split perhaps celebrating the defect by filling with a very dark brown, even black, tinted epoxy would be the way to go. It would end up looking like a smooth bark inclusion under the finish. Many of the high end turners and flat boarders I know use this technique to "fix" splits, loose knots, etc. and it looks quite natural.
If a man made defect, such as a ragged dent or scratch, I'd try steaming it several times to see if the damage raises and then reassess the situation. It may revive enough that another round of sanding the entire surface removes the defect. I wouldn't spot sand as it could leave a depression...
John
e boards on the buffet projects has a small imperfection. It's a thin -- ma ybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about 1/16th of an inch deep. I recall reading that some folks fill such imperfections with CA glue . What's the process? What impact does this have on finishing (assuming use of a wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions? I'd suggest using o ne of these to fill your scar. I have a set and frequently use one of them to fill indentations larger than your 1/16" scar.
Keep in mind wax\shellac types sticks are used AFTER you finish finishing. So they are used after you stain, and top coat. But before you wax (if you are waxing. The main reason is that no matter what you fill with, it will N OT stain or color that same from the top coat as the surrounding wood. It a lways looks different. So adding a filler after the fact lets you match the color more precisely. Also, if you have any other color differences or gra in patterns in the surrounding wood, you can modify the dent so it looks mo re like a natural anomily and then a fill with a liitle off color is OK.
Another approach is to do what is called a "dutchman" patch or repair. Goog le it. It is a sort of inlay method. You use the same wood to make a filler piece, cut a shallow mortise in a shape that follows grain lines and done well it ends up hiding well. Does take some talent. It can easily look much worse than the original problem but done well can be invisible. Again, dut chmen can be done to look like a natural anomily so exact match is not the goal. I have inlayed a knot before into pieces that have a few other knots already to hid a hammer ding.
It's a thin -- maybe 1/16th of an inch by 2 inch jagged scar that's about 1/16th of an inch deep. I recall reading that some folks fill such imperfections with CA glue. What's the process? What impact does this have on finishing (assuming use of a wipe on oil-based finish)? Any other suggestions?
I make lots of imperfections. Maybe I should just make the whole project out of that stuff?
LOL... glad I wasn't drinking my coffee. ;~)
oogle it. It is a sort of inlay method. You use the same wood to make a fil ler piece, cut a shallow mortise in a shape that follows grain lines and do ne well it ends up hiding well. Does take some talent.
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I'll say. a 1/16" X 1/16" 2" long dutchman wouldn't be for the inexperienced. First, cutting the receiving side correctly. Then making the one of a kind filler that is 1/16" x 1/16" to fit....
Then gluing it in to fit with no glue lines or "glue seal" from wiping away excess glue when finished....
Well beyond the skill set of anyone I know!
Robert
John ...
Thanks for the reply. It is a rather modest natural defect. I think it add s a bit of interest to the piece, but my customer -- my son -- believes it is an imperfection that needs correction. I'm going to try to educate him on the vagaries of wood and the inherent beauty therein. This is hard rock maple, not laminate for heaven's sake!
Larry
Larry,
I know the type... ;~)
If he is insistent, and the boards haven't been cut to final size, maybe simply rip the board (glued up panel) through the defect and glue it up... If it has been cut to final size you could make rips to remove the defect plus a bit more and add another board. Doing either may be more straight forward than "invisibly fixing" the defect knowing your son is going to be looking for it!
John
other approach is to do what is called a "dutchman" patch or repair. Google it. It is a sort of inlay method. You use the same wood to make a filler p iece, cut a shallow mortise in a shape that follows grain lines and done we ll it ends up hiding well. Does take some talent. ======== = I'll say. a 1/16" X 1/16" 2" long dutchman wouldn't be for the inexperi enced. First, cutting the receiving side correctly. Then making the one of a kind filler that is 1/16" x 1/16" to fit.... Then gluing it in to fit wit h no glue lines or "glue seal" from wiping away excess glue when finished.. .. Well beyond the skill set of anyone I know! Robert
I agree it is not the easiest solution. Nothing says it has to stay that sm all either. Just laying out all possibilities. Honestly, I fix as many smal l problems with a sharpie, drawing in some grain, coloring a chipped out sp ot of finish, as I do with a chisel.
I have fixed crack like imperfections by cleaning, widening or lengthening them with a knife\ravor as needed, then tapping in some slivers of the same wood and planing them down by hand.
bit of interest to the piece, but my customer -- my son -- believes it is an imperfection that needs correction. I'm going to try to educate him on the vagaries of wood and the inherent beauty therein. This is hard rock maple, not laminate for heaven's sake!
Hey, Larry! See if you can show him how to do some inlay (wood, stone, or colored epoxy) which would make it a point of interest instead, if you can't convince him otherwise.
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