It doesnt matter if the ceiling is to be smooth or textured the first
two coats still have to be smooth, clean, and sanded. Many people
think that texture will "hide" poorly, sloppy, taping but it wont. You
will still see every joint through the texture especially in low angle
lighting. Though we dont use them this is especially true with rolled
Prep textured and smooth ceilings identically. Only difference is the
"noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
Remove the old plaster first, then the lath, trust me it is easier then
ripping it all down! Run strapping across the exposed joists every 16
inches. Shim as needed to get them as level as reasonable. I say reasonable
because with old houses you sometimes have to just accept the fact that it
not possible get things level and true.
On Mar 14, 6:00 pm, "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:
The question is why is your ceiling drooping. Is it because the
plaster has separated from the lath, the joists have sagged, or
there's another problem. The one joist at 24" is a red flag. Before
you go adding substantially more weight to your ceiling, you should
investigate fully and find out what's the root cause of the problem.
Here's how to install ceiling strapping, aka furring:
As others have said, removing the old ceiling is generally preferable.
That one spot that is sagging feels pretty solid when I push up on it.
In the dining room when I took off the square tiles, there was plaster
This house was built in the 40's. I could take off the plaster and lath but
would have to find a wait to get the 4 x 12's up by myself w/o renting the
Rent the drywall lift, get a helper and install all the sheetrock in a
single day. I recently put up a complete ceiling inside a 32 foot by 48
foot building with inside pitch of 2" in 12" (scissor trusses on 24"
centers, 4x8 foot sheetrock with long edge at right angles to the
trusses. With one helper, it all went up in under 8 hours, including
breaks, lunch and a six pack or so of beers each along the way, so the
afternoon went slower than the morning, as you might expect... I don't
do this sort of thing for a living, so am definitely NOT as fast as the
pros. This ceiling started at 10' high at the low edge with peak at
about 12' 8". We laid the peak first and worked down to the lowest edge.
After previously done the short stilts thing, and the short scaffold
thing even on an 8 foot high flat ceiling, I wouldn't even think about
putting up ANY overhead sheet goods without a sheetrock lift. They rent
pretty cheap, are easy to use, and if you have one long enough, you
could do the whole job by yourself and not be beating yourself to death
doing it. After remembering four of us (late high school and college
age) holding up sheets of 1/2" sheetrock and nailing them to the ceiling
joists way back in the 70's, finishing out a garage, there had to be a
better way. The lift is the obvious tool for the job. The hardest part
of the whole process is loading the sheetrock on the lift, and after
that all you do is flip it up flat, crank it up to the ceiling, and
position it. Once in position, a little more crank on the lift to press
it against the joists and you've got it in place while you screw in
sheetrock screws at a liesurely pace. No bent and strained back trying
to hold up one part while screwing or nailing as far as you can reach so
the sheet doesn't fall down before you can get more fasteners in
place... No bitching at the brothers holding up the other corners when
you find out they couldn't hold the sheet on line so now you have to
trim the next one.... and so on. I wish such equipment existed in the
70's, it would have made things a lot easier in the family, if you know
what I mean...
Today, in my 50's, any money I can spend to rent machines that save my
back and make life easier is money well spent, particularly when I sit
still long enough to remember the "old days" of my youth...
Others are right, you need to pull down the old plaster and lath, for
two reasons. First, to determine and correct (if possible) the reaon
for the current "sag", and second, to reduce the load on the ceiling
that you'd have if you added the sheetrock. Given the older
construction, I'd not want the added weight of the sheetrock in place,
and besides, it would be nearly impossible to ensure the fasteners went
into the joists instead of just the lath, which would make for problems
down the road. I wouldn't be too concerned about the one place with a
24" joist spacing, if the truss structure looks appropriate. (Current
trusses are 24" or 48" spacing, depending on design "snow load" and
such. If the joists are actually part of engineered trusses you
shouldn't have any problems. Even if they aren't, if the span isn't
that great (say 12 feet), you may still not have any issues. If in
doubt, have a qualified building engineer take a look and determine if
the load is appropriate for the joist spacing and bracing. Even a
couple hundred dollars would be well spent knowing things are up to
Good luck, take every opportunity to let the machines do the work for
you. Any time you can get a machine to lift, position and hold
something like sheetrock in place while you take care of fastening it in
a lesurely manner, the money you spent on the tool rental was cheap
cheap cheap, particularly if you factor in the emergency room or doctor
visit for the strained back from trying to hold up one end of a sheet
while you reach out and drive screws, not to mention the days of pain or
aches you endure during recovery from the strain.
Yep, tools are our friends, in many ways...
When you've determined for sure that
subsequent work won't be necessary on
the joists, I'd recommend that you put
up 4x8 sheets, if you're doing it alone.
With two T-braces, I've successfully
installed 4x8 sheets, but I cringe at
the thought of 12 footers.
Ok, "success" is a relative term. I did
lose one sheet in a 17x20 room. I also
didn't have the t-braces that i should
have had. 12 sheets are a good idea for
the pros, for people with the lifts, and
for people not working alone. For the
rest of us, 8 feet seems the maximum
Make a couple "deadman" supports of the proper height to lift/hold the
in place. A "deadman" is just a "T" made out of a couple of 2" x 4"'s.
With the help of my wife and the deadmans we were able to put up 16's by
Tear it out. Shim/furr it. Go rent a lift. They break down into pieces
so you can fit it into a small car if you have to. For around $40 a
day it will make the job much easier. I recently installed 12 sheets
of 4'x12' 5/8'' on a vaulted ceiling by my lonesome. The hardest part
was getting them onto the lift. Absolutely no way I could have done
it without the lift.
Let me chime in and second the idea of removing the old lath. I did it here
on a ceiling and it was much better than furring on top of the existing
plaster. If you need to level the ceiling joists, you can sister new ones
onto the existing ones.
"noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
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