Drawers--dovetails vs dado

[Charlie Campney]

Greetings,

What is the preferred way to fit drawer backs? I am currently starting drawers for a bedroom chest & dresser and have a question about the drawers. I am fitting the fronts with half blind dovetails. I have mostly seen the backs just set into dados and nailed. I am thinking that as long as I have the dovetail jig set up I could also do the backs that way too. What is your preference? Also, has anyone used any kind of friction reducing tape on the runners? The runners and side guides are cherry. Drawer sides & backs are of poplar.

Regards, Charlie in Kentucky

[Phisherman]

I either use a dado, or through dovetail joints. Dovetails are probably overkill, but I find myself using them more frequently as they are strong, give a tad more drawer space, and they are fun to make. Nails? We don't need no stinkin' nails! I have not used any anti-friction stuff on my drawer runners, not even candle wax. A properly made drawer will slide sweetly without any help.

[Charlie Self]

Charlie Campney asks:

Jeez, man. Not nailed, that's for sure. If you've got the jig set up, do the dovetails all around.

Charlie Self "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine

[John Crea]

Dado's are fine for the rear/back and the bottom. You are NOT going to be pulling on those joints like you would the front where the dovetails go

John

[David F. Eisan]

Dear Charlie,

Slip-It.

[Chris]

Charlie,

I often wondered the same thing... why take the time to do nice dovetails joints on the front, then cheap out with dado and (horrors!) brad nails to hold the drawer bottom in place.

In a discussion here a while back someone pointed out that the back of the drawer does not need the "pull" strength that the front needs so no reason to use dovetails all around. But, say something (paint, nail polish, or anything sticky) spills in the drawer - the dado and brads method makes it much easier to replace the bottoms.

-Chris

[Bruce Rowen]

In my mind it depends on how much work you are willing to do. Functionally the rear part of a drawer has very little force applied during normal usage except for shifting drawer contents or helping support a load of paper leaning against it as with a file cabinet. Decoratively speaking, dovetails at the drawer back won't be seen unless the drawer is removed or is on full extension slides.

If you are all set up for the DTs and don't mind spending the extra few moments cutting the pieces and dealing with the extra wear on your bits, you certainly have nothing to lose with the DT's over other joints and gain a bit of satisfaction knowing everything is "right" with your project.

-Bruce

[John Grossbohlin]

Given that the back of a drawer is generally completely above the bottom (i.e., the drawer bottom is nailed to the bottom of the back) I don't see what difference the joinery of the back corners would make to bottom replacement... ???

John

[Phisherman]

That's right. The traditional way is to slide the drawer bottom in from the back and use one screw or nail into the back to hold the bottom in place. But, I have also seen drawer bottoms fit into a drawer back groove, although I do not recommend this method.

[kb8qlr]

The drawers in my kitchen were built many years ago with butt joints. So too are the drawers I built for in my shop. IMHO dovetails are too much work. Cheers! Joe kb8qlr