Do you Joint every board?

As Winter approaches here in Michigan, it's time to look to see what new equipment I may want, and a Jointer is right up there.
The question that I have for those that own one, is, do you joint every board when you're preparing your material? I understand the use of a jointer when gluing up a large panel, for instance, but do you go through a complete procedure to square up every board exactly all the time?
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Larry Bud) wrote:

Of course. How else do you make sure that the boards are flat and straight?
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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Larry Bud asks:

Yes, but not always with the jointer. For small projects, a smoothing plane is often handier.
Charlie Self
"Men willingly believe what they wish." Julius Caesar, De Bello Gallico
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Someone else said it - that the Jointer is an underappreciated tool in the shop. Now that I have one, I find myself using it all of the time! Buy one, and you'll use it.
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I can see it now on the NY Times Best Seller List: "What Color is My Jointer -- Stories of a woodworker's great quest to discover the long-lost secret methods of the Inca's for limiting cross-grain wood movement and for assembling large panels w/o using a few nails to hold things in place until the glue dries".
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Every stick. See http://www.patwarner.com/material_prep.html link for one milling schedule. ***************************************************************

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Wow. In a flashback to European-style numbers, I thought for a moment you were jointing somewhere on the sun -- or maybe Mercury.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Larry Bud) wrote in message

Yes, definitely! Everything gets much easier and more precise when the stock is straight and square.
Buying S4S stock might help, but remember that S4S just means smooth on 4 sides (not straight). Also, all stock moves when cut and when moved to a different location/humidity.
Many people rough cut their stock and let it equilibrate for a couple of days before final jointing/planing.
Cheers, Nate
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Amen. I've seen lots of S4S corkscrews.
Kevin
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Only the ones I wanted true and flat . . .
Jim

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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Larry Bud) wrote in message

Sometimes I skip face jointing before the planer if the stock is pretty flat or too wide for the jointer. I almost always edge, it's quick and easy --- certainly easier to make a few swipes across the jointer than to try and shove something that's not straight through the saw. I guess the jointer is like any other tool -- not absolutely necessary but if you have it you'll use it. I suppose if I were starting with S4S stock it would be different, but my hoard is stored rough sawn.
hex -30-
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Only those that need it ... then those that didn't need it so they match those that did.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/08/03
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On 8 Sep 2003 07:55:04 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Larry Bud) wrote:

Yup.
Barry
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On 8 Sep 2003 07:55:04 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Larry Bud) wrote:

Yes. You absolutely need a straight and true edge to build a quality piece of furniture. If you are building bird houses, no.
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Only if a board needs it.
Before using a board I lay it on a flat surface and alternative tap on opposing corners. If it rocks it gets joined. If it doesn't I altenately press on the center of the ends of the board. If it rocks it gets joined. If it passes those test it gets turned over and the process is repeated. Any rocklng and the board's face gets joined.
If the faces are flat I check the long edges for straight. Again, on a flat surface, the board is set on edge and the ends pressed on looking for any rocking. If there's any rocking the edge gets joined.
Finally I'll check that both long edges are square to the face using a small machinist square. If they're not square the board gets joined and the opposing edge ripped.
Found out early on that you can't make rectangles out of trapezoids and the importance of flat, square and straight.
charlie b
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On 8 Sep 2003 07:55:04 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Larry Bud) wrote:

It depends on the project.
When I want a very good edge, I simply change saw blades and use my planer blade. Edges come out darn near perfect.
And I don't own a jointer. I use my router w/table for jointer work when I need it.
If you've got a good table saw and blades...or turned it INTO a good table saw (mine cost $99 with stand...lol)...you don't always need to do any prep work after the cut. A lot depends on your tools...and technique, of course.
Hope ya'll have a nice week...
Trent
Proud member of the Roy Rogers fan club!
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On Thu, 11 Sep 2003 19:39:42 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r .

On a 4" surface?...or on a 32" surface?
I use a sander,Barry...and scribble a bunch of pencil marks! lol
Hope ya'll have a nice week...
Trent
Proud member of the Roy Rogers fan club!
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