Diablo 80 tooth blade

I bought a Diablo 80 tooth blade back in December/Jan time frame.
I finally mounted it, nice cuts. Then while cutting a 2x3 for a built in I am making the damn thing kicked back and twisted the wood in my miter saw. I have never had a problem with previous blades...
So then I notice it is not cutting as smooth and I don't see a problem... Well, while cleaning up I see a tooth... damn... then I notice that that tooths mount is bent.... So when it kicked back it bent the mount. Lots of red anti stick on the wood.
There doesn't appear to be much of a braze on this tooth. Not that I would know. This is my first tooth lost on a new blade. I have lost teeth on older blades, but that's expected heat... age, brittleness.
Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick back and break the tooth?
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"tiredofspam" wrote:

Time for a trip to a blade sharpening service for analysis and repair by the pros.
Lew
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On 8/4/2011 4:34 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Just a SWAG, but the kickback probably caused the problem ... not uncommon to get kickback if the wood is slightly curved, or not sitting square, with either table or the fence of a miter saw.
In short, I would probably blame the wood for the kickback, and the blade tooth problem on the kickback.
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"Swingman" wrote
Just a SWAG, but the kickback probably caused the problem ... not uncommon to get kickback if the wood is slightly curved, or not sitting square, with either table or the fence of a miter saw.
In short, I would probably blame the wood for the kickback, and the blade tooth problem on the kickback. --------------------------------------------------------- Agreed. The first thing I teach my students on using a chop saw or radial arm saw is to make sure the wood is in contact with bot the fence and the table closest to where the blade is passing through the wood. There is a way the wood can be turned and flipped that those two conditions will both be met.
-- Jim in NC
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wrote:

I had an 80 tooth blade kick back on the miter saw. I'm still not sure why it happened, but the blade was ruined. Seriously bent out of shape. I bought a cheap clock mechanism and it's on the shop wall as a reminder of how friggin lucky I was.
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On 8/4/11 9:04 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:

A lot of kickback on miter saws occurs when a warped board in placed against the fence, with space between the fence and the board, at the blade. The blade cuts through most of the board and the left and right side of the board starts move towards the fence, pulling the uncut portion of the board into the blade.
Either don't cut warped boards, or make sure the warp is concave towards you, convex against the fence, and that you're holding one side securely against the fence.
--

-MIKE-

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On 8/4/2011 9:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

handle stress well.
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Yep, the 80tooth miter is a thin kerf. I don't think the plate is bent, but the tooths mount is definitely.
Seems Freud has already responded. I'll send it back and see what happens. I am impressed that they responded with in a day by email. That's a good sign.
On 8/5/2011 8:16 AM, Leon wrote:

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On 8/5/11 7:16 AM, Leon wrote:

True. I hate thin kerf blades, even on my circ saw. As soon as I had saws that all had high horse power, I got rid of every thin-kerf I owned. It's hard to kind anything but thin kerf blades for circ saws.
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It wasn't a warped board. It was straight. I am at a loss. I thought it was tight against the fence. So it is perplexing me...
Yea it did scare the heck out of me. I don't usually get scared by kickback on the TS, but this one shocked me.
On 8/4/2011 10:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

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On 8/5/11 11:07 AM, tiredofspam wrote:

TS? Sorry, I was talking about a miter saw.
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Yea I was talking about kickback on the Miter saw that happened. But was comparing it to a TS kickback.
When I have had kick back on the TS it doesn't usually scare me... I just hold it tight and push through. But the Miter saw scared the crap out of me.
I hadn't clamped the wood... I never do unless Its a miter, never on a straight cut. So the miter saw kick back was way more violent. This just picked up a 2x3 and rolled it up toward the blade. Then jammed it
On 8/5/2011 1:31 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

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On 8/5/2011 11:07 AM, tiredofspam wrote:

Just surmising again, but being a thin kerf, a piece of "reaction wood", or case hardened wood that would move just enough, on the side you were not holding, to bind the thinner blade would be a definite possibility, and an 80 tooth blade is definitely prone to bind, even in a straight cut ... even a fine tooth handsaw will prove that quickly enought.
From your updated description about the blade, it sounds as if it is a combination of both adding up to the stock binding the blade.

Rough cutting a good deal of uneven S2S1E stock to length, it happens enough that I've gotten used to kick back on my LS1013.
Even though I expect it to happen, it's still a heart thumper when it does, so I feel your pain! :)
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Yea, maybe the 80t was more prone. I have the LS1013 too. I was using a 60T previously.
I thought I wanted finer crosscuts. I have a WWII for my TS. And figured the 80T would give me nice results. It was nice for the few cuts before it blew the tooth, but not anymore.
On 8/5/2011 2:39 PM, Swingman wrote:

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On 8/5/2011 3:54 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Forrest Chopmaster
Simply can't be beat.
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