I am just starting in woodworking so I post a lot of questions, sorry if to
many on too many topics . . . But I have never been so excited about
learning to do anything as woodworking . . . .
My latest question is . . . . I really want to build a "REAL" workbench . .
. . Problem, I bought a Delta X5 2HP Contractors Table Saw.
I operate it on 220VAC. Is it capable of cutting 3 1/2" to 4" hardwood to
make the slabs for making of the laminate top. After reading this page
http://swigerwoodworks.com/my_workbench.htm , I realize my saw might not be
capable of building one of these work benches. Anyone who has run hardwood
of this thickness thru a 2HP saw, please le me know what blade you used or
Thanks again . . . Steve
The specs say that the maximum depth of cut with a 10" blade is 3 1/8". By
cutting slowly and carefully and giving the blade time to remove the waste,
I've cut wood thicker than that on my similarly sized saw by cutting through
one side, flipping the wood over and then cutting the other side. Another
alternative is cutting one side with the table saw, then cutting the piece
off with a hand saw and then flattening that part with a block plane.
depth of sut of that machine should be right about at 3". you can
double that by flipping the board over and running it through again.
if a full depth cut bogs down the motor switch to a blade with less
teeth, feed slower and / or make the cut in several passes raising the
blade between passes.
Version 3. Your saw will do it, You can cut as deep as the saw will
comfortably cut then flip the board same side against the fence and cut
again. Raise the blade some more and repeated the above procedure. Raise
the blade repeat. You get the idea.
No need to get a bigger saw or shy away for an occasional project that
requires this type cutting.
Why do you need to make cuts that thick? The thickest dimension in the
workbench you referenced is 2 1/2". I certainly would not want to attempt to
cut anything thicker than that on any table saw if the wood was rough.
Before you get too far into doing the top yourself, check the prices of
pre-fab hard maple tops. You might be surprised how little extra cost it is
compared to the large amount of work you would spend milling, cutting and
gluing it up yourself.
I built a European woodworkers bench with a saw similar to yours - Jet 10"
contractor saw. The top on your bench doesn't need to be more than 2 1/2"
thick, which your saw can handle if you take it slow and raise the blade
progressively and make multiple passes. I used a Woodworker II blade.
Used beech for the bench top.
Probably more important is how you will surface those boards so they glue up
nice and tight. You'll need a thickness planer to cut everything down to
exactly the same width and thickness (run the boards through wide side up;
then gang them and runt through on the edge).
A saw with more HP would be able to cut quicker without bogging but
any contractor's saw with 1.5 hp or more can cut hardwood with some
tlc. I guess you realize that any 10 inch tablesaw has a max cut of 3
to 3 1/4 inches or so? If you are ripping 4" thick wood you will
need to flip it end for end to finish the cut. Read up on safety
precautions for using this technique. Using a good quality 24
tooth or even 18 tooth ripping blade will make the operation much
easier on you and the saw, but with proper care it can be done with a
Your question does not make sense. Why would you need that big of a cut?
All 10" saws have a depth of cut capacity of 3" (give or take)
From the picture, I'll assume that each lamination is about 2" thick and 5
inches high. You would not use a table saw to cut the 5" dimension. You
would either start with planks which are two inches thick and rip them to 5"
wide cutting through the 2" dimmension.
Ideally, you would start with 8/4 ot 10/4 rough-cut planks joint then plane
them to thickness make your slabs for lamination. This is prefereable as you
can guarantee that your laminations are dead-flat (that's really
Does that help of confuse?
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