Cutting clean holes in plywood veneer

I built an aquarium stand out of 2*4s (I don't recommend this method BTW, shoulda used 1*3 stiles and 1*4 rails with pocket joinery) and I plan to face it with 1/4" plywood veneer due to cost of hardwood. So I'm wondering what would give me the cleanest cutouts? I'm guessing a jigsaw is my best option? I plan to use the cutouts to make cheap door panels BTW.
TIA
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Depends on the size of the cut-outs. If there' something like 3 inches or less, then I'd recommend a hole. For the cleanest hole, start the back side just enough to score the veneer, go around to the good side and insert the drill bit in the hole and drill until through.
If the hole is larger than that, a good sharp razor know with a little bit of muscle will do the job fine. You might have to do some repeated depth cuts. To decrease the likelihood of tearout, wherever you're cutting, make sure the back side is butted up against a flat wooden surface.
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Apologies for the mostly meaningless message. Spell checker caught it. 'hole' should be hole-saw.
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LOL, never even noticed. I knew what you meant in any event. :)

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Yeah, a sharp utility knife was my first thought, but were talking about 3 openings about 24*12. That's a lot of muscle. I can just see myself slipping out of the groove and oops. I suppose cutting from the back would be an option.
Maybe I'll make some templates and route them out?
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If you really wanted to be safe, then an external template would be the way to go. However, I've cut through 1/4" plywood a number of times before with a razor knife as the result of living in an apartment and wanting to avoid excessive dust. You can do it properly if the first few depth cuts are light and then you can go deeper on subsequent cuts because the blade tends to follow the groove or path of least resistance.
Another method I've used is to cut inside the line about an 1/8" and then use a razor knife almost like a drawknife or plane to shave off that excess. Works quite well and fairly fast actually and lets you sneak up on your line bit by bit.
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Depending on the size of the doors you could route 'em out to the 2x4 frame and get a pretty clean cut
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Yeah, I considered that. I was even thinking of using my rotozip for the same job. But I wanted to keep the cuts straight, whereas the 2*4s will be a little wiggly. I was going to lay the frame on the plywood, trace out the openings, clean up with a straight edge and cut.
If I'd built a real frame I wouldn't be in this boat. :(
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Strange, my first reply seems to have been eaten. Hopefully this is not a duplicate.
Yeah, I considered that. I was even thinking of using my rotozip for the same job. But I wanted to keep the cuts straight, whereas the 2*4s will be a little wiggly. I was going to lay the frame on the plywood, trace out the openings, clean up with a straight edge and cut.
If I'd built a real frame I wouldn't be in this boat. :(
Maybe I could make up some templates ans use those to route out the holes.
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Bill Stock wrote:

If you have a _good_ jigsaw (Bosch or another good brand based on the Bosch patents) then try one of the Bosch Progressor blades. With my old Bosch saw on orbital setting 1 they do exactly what Bosch claims and give a cut darned near as smooth as a planer combination blade with no tearout on either surface.

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
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I do have a Bosch actually, it was one of my few tool indulgences. It came with enough blades to last me a lifetime. Don't have no stinkin progressor blade though? At least I don't think so.
I just might go with the router. I was thinking that if I clamped a board on top of the veneer and flush cut the holes it would help. I tried just a plain piece of plywood (no cover board) and the edges were a little fuzzy, but sanded up OK.
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