Creating slats for shelf...input needed.


I came across some bars that a gym was throwing out and decided to use them for the frame of a free standing shelf. Being that they used to hold weights, I figured they would be great for strength.
Problem... They are 36" deep. I have two ideas on how to create slats...
Idea 1: Similar to picture #3, but have 2 boards together. With 2 boards, it should be strong enough to prevent any bowing
Idea 2: Create slats in picture #3, then run single 2x4 perpendicular to slats through middle connecting all slats together.
Question: Both will cost nearly the same (#2 may save about $30) as figured will need ~35 2x4's for #1 and 25 2x4's for #2 idea. First will be easier in glue up and think it may hold better from bowing. Am I right or any other ideas?
See pics #1
http://67.169.201.134/shelf/1.jpg
#2
http://67.169.201.134/shelf/2.jpg
#3
http://67.169.201.134/shelf/3.jpg
Note: slats on there right now are just extra 2x4's had laying around. Cut them to see if they would work. I think I like the 2x4's better than the 2x8's, so will probably stay with them for remaining shelves.
- Clayton
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wrote:

You can't just run a screw up through the holes that are already there? If not I would run a rabbet at the ends rather than attach blocks under them. Easier and you'd lose less shelf height.
How much weight are you going to put on this thing? I suspect you'll bow the metal before you bow those 2x4s.
-Leuf
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<Sorry for missing last post... hit send by accident before even typing anything>
I am looking at using 1 shelf (both sides) for lumber. Weight will be distributed across all the slats, so I don't think I will have a problem. I won't really have a lot of weight in just one spot, but distributed. Other shelfs will be for storage, such at boxes, router (in case), xmas storage, ... Space on right side I left bottom 2 shelfs off so can put lawn mower and air compressor underneith (originally wanted to slide my new toy (Tormek) undernieth, but it is 1/8" too tall).
Other thing I was thinking of was that 2x4's tend to have a tendancy to twist. Was thinking that glueing 2 together would help prevent this (but also takes 2x as many 2x4's...nearly $100 I calculated total). I have been planing all the 2x4s smooth by thickness planer then hand planing the edges to make sure they rest flatly on metal rods.
I find it hard that I will bend those metal bars as they were designed for holding weights at a gym and are very strong (AND HEAVY). Spent 3 days (half of my vacation) cleaning up the spots of rust at the joints. But once cleaned, it looks great..
And no, the holes on the bars are only on 1 side. They had heavy duty springs in them (pain in the butt to get some of them out)
- Clayton
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Ok.. I'm cheap... I'd use 3/4 chipboard instead of all the 2x4's, unless you already have an abundance of 3' 2x4's..
I'd cut notches in the plywood/chip-particle board for the posts and countersink a few screws and start stacking wood and stuff on 'em.. YMMV Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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On Mon, 11 Sep 2006 08:31:23 -0700, mac davis

Did a quick pricing... the chipboard would cost a bit more than just using 2x4's. Now the question is, whether chipboard would be stronger than 2x4's?
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I agree with Mac. We have hundreds of similar shelving units 24" and 36" deep units for hold auto parts. We use particle board. If a shelve is going to be loaded with real heavy stuff, we simply double up the particle board. It has work well for years. The only problem will be if the boards get wet!
Dave
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