Compound Mitre or TS

I'm going to be putting up some 1X3 crown molding. I'm going to be making about 40 - 90 degree compound mitre corners. Someone told me I could do it on my table saw and I guess you could by tilting the blade and using the mitre gauge. I'm wondering if I should attempt this on my table saw or buy a compund mitre saw.
I'm not in the trades but I do do a fair bit of wood working latly working on my home. Becuase this is a tool which will probably sit in the garage with long periods of non use it is difficult for me to justify a $400.00+ pro mitre saw. I was at Sears and I saw a 10 inch (I think) compound mitre saw with laser guide for $199.00. I didn't catch the modle number. It is going on sale for $189.00 this weekend. This is an amount I feel comfortable with if it will make the job that much easier.
So the question is, will I butcher a lot of wood and pull all my hair out with the TS, or should I get the mitre saw? Also, as I'm sure the Craftsman is not the best saw in the world, is it an absolute piece of crap? Anoth alternative is to rent a very nice, top of the line mitre saw.
Any thoughts on this?
Greg
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If you have a Lowe's nearby, check the Delta MS350. I got one three weeks ago for $139 and it is doing a good job with compound miters. The stock blade was pretty good, but rather thin. I added a Forrest Chopmaster blade and the cuts are smooth enough that no sanding is needed. I have a table saw, but this is much faster and I am getting more precise cuts. harrym

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http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
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My plan was to get the 10" DeWalt for $229, but my wife convinced me I'd be happier with the 12" for $299. Very accurate. Did a couple of things I'd not bother with on the table saw. I bought it to do some flooring that I'm finally starting today. Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
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I bought a refurbished Delta Sidekick 10" SCMS a short time ago for $250, shipped. Search the web for Tyler Tool. This saw usually sells in the $450-$500 range.
I spent about an hour aligning it per the manual's instructions, using some quality machinists squares. My saw was in such good shape that I wonder if a previous owner _didn't_ align it, and returned it as inaccurate. Any tool I've ever bought, except for mt DW733 planer, needed something done to it, so this is plenty acceptable in my book.
This saw is now plenty accurate for pretty much everything short of face frames and stiles, which I still cut on the table saw. My saw is now bolted to the bench, so it stays accurate.
I had no idea that this thing would get used as often as it does.
Barry
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message wrote in message

After looking at Taylor Tools some more I found they have the Dewalt 703 for $229 and the Dewalt 703R for $189. The specs seem identical.
703 http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tylertool/dewdw10commi.html
703R http://store.yahoo.com/tylertool/dewdwrec10co.html
Greg
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message wrote in message

Hey, thanks. I just went to Taylor Tool. They have a Dewalt DW703 for $229.00 and free shipping. Anyone ever use this saw?
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tylertool/dewdw10commi.html
Does anyone know if this saw has a laser (Add didn't say), and Barry did your saw come with a new blade?
Greg
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On 13 Jul 2003 15:35:30 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@windsweptsoftware.com (Greg DeBacker) wrote:

Brand spanking new. I would imagine that would be up to the manufacturer or refurbishing house, and may depend on the brand of tool.
Barry
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message wrote in message

Hey, thanks. I just went to Taylor Tool. They have a Dewalt DW703 for $229.00 and free shipping. Anyone ever use this saw?
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tylertool/dewdw10commi.html
Does anyone know if this saw has a laser (Add didn't say), and Barry did your saw come with a new blade?
Greg
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No, it does not. Ed
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Thanks for the feedback, both of you. The crown molding is going under the outside window sills on an old Victorian home. It's not like I'm making picture frames that are going to be on a wall in my living room where everyone will see them up close. I think I'll try on the table saw first (window upstairs on the back of the house). If it is a real bitch I'll try a rental.
Thanks,
Greg
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In rec.woodworking snipped-for-privacy@windsweptsoftware.com (Greg DeBacker) wrote:

Greg, there is much prejudice here against Craftsman, some deserved and some not but to say that top of the line Craftsmen Miter saws are crap is simply ridiculous. I have the 12" with the Laser and absolutely love it. It is a joy to use and anyone that says the laser is a gimick has never used one. Once you do, you'll never go back. The 10" saw you're looking at is the baby brother of my saw and I would have absolutely NO problems recommending it to you.
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Greg, I have to agree totally with Bruce on that one. I've got the 10" with the laser and love it!!! My dad and bil have the non laser ones, and believe me, there's all the difference in the world. Although, I did see where you can buy the laser attachment for those with out one. I don't remember where, but I think it was around $50.00. Just thought I'd put in my nickel's worth.
--
This space for rent.
Jerry The Phoneman
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snip

I disagree. I have the 10" with the laser and I think its a gimick. Maybe on a better saw it might be worthwhile, but on a saw that flexes a good 1/32nd or more from the top of the cutting arc to where it meets wood, the only good a laser is doing me is telling my how innacurate my saw is. I still have to take the non-spinning blade to the wood to be sure of where its gong to cut. Maybe yours doesnt do that, but mine does. Be thankful it doesnt. As fas as Im concerned, you got lucky. I certainly wouldnt use my saw for any type of accurate cutting. I have table saw jigs for that kind of stuff.
Drew
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In rec.woodworking

Surely you realize that the laser line is NOT where the blade hits the wood? That would be impossible.
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In rec.woodworking

JFTR, I've yet to see him respond.

How are you privy to the specs it is manufactured to? What are the tolerances for the main pivot bearing?

My mileage does vary. I'm gradually putting crown all over my house with mine. The problems I run into aren't with the saw, they're with the house. In any event, using a protractor on the walls and crown look up tables, mine mates like a dream.
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Bruce, You got me. I dont know what the specs for the main pivot bearing is. Its really irrelevant, though. Either the specs are lousy and its built completely to spec, or the specs are tighter than an Amish girl on wedding night, and its built lousy. Either way, its lousy.

house.
You obviously know how to hang crown moulding, in spite of the saw. Actually, the sign of a craftsman, IMHO, is the end result, not the cool shiny power tools he has.
I am not a craftsman basher. Google all my posts that Ive ever written, and youll not see me once refer to them as crapsman. I think thats actually a little childish and silly. However, I firmly believe that they are not the same tools that they were 30 or more years ago. Hand tools, theyre a better than average tool. Power tools, not so much. I only own one craftsman power tool, the 10 inch laser MS. It was a gift. I wouldnt have bought it. However, I cant argue with the price. I am glad that you are happy with your saw. I am sure that it will give you many years of good service. I know my saw has fallen far short of that.
Good luck with your home improvements.
Drew
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Could just be a "lemmon", although I agree, craftsman in not as good as it once was. To the OP, you can do it on a T/S with out tilting the blade if you make up a sled(set to a 45 deg. angle) that allows the molding to sit at the same angle that it will sit on the case,wall,or frame. Hope this makes sense? thanks, Tony D.
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In rec.woodworking

Classy post Drew. Thanks and good luck to you too.
Bruce
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woodworker for 30 + years, buy a compound mitre. without a mitre jig for your table saw , the mitre saw will give better results. go for a 12" if you can. I have dewalt with a 100 tooth freud blade . It produces glass like cuts.
Ken Kraay
Good luck.
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