Cherry Table

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I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back from the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the design from a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By the way the table sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)
For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down to some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4 boards to get the required width. I have never done this before. Here is how I plan on doing it:
Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and clamp the piss out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.
Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
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Stoutman
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Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.

As you always should, totally coat the surface with glue and put as many clamps on the set up as you can. It is easier to glue all the pieces at one time however the pieces tend to slip a bit. You can shoot a short brad in to each inner piece to keep them from creeping when applying the pressure. BE SURE to keep the brads near the center so that you do not cut into them when you cut the taper and square the corners.
If your boards are flat you should not have any void problems.
BTY did the new Rikon motor fix the problem you were having?
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Thanks for the info! I think I have seen David Marks use that brad trick. It didnt occur to me to use it here.

I havent swapped them out yet. The problem has not repeated itself for a few days. I might just hang onto the extra motor until the problem resurfaces.

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Yes.
This is something you get used to doing when you work with quarter sawn white oak as you gernally can't find it any thicker than 8/4.
In addition, and although it is mostly done with quartersawn wood to show the QS face on all four sides, you might want to consider doing "quadralinear legs" for appearance sake.
DAGS ...
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stoutman wrote:

Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the face sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where you cut through one board to another. To avoid that you can either...
1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since faces won't be parallel).
2. taper *more* than you want after gluing then glue a thin piece to the ugly reveal side.
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dadiOH
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Toller wrote:

It will show regardless of which sides are tapered.
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On Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:56:48 GMT, dadiOH wrote:

Tape the cut-offs back on the outside to provide parallel surfaces for clamps. Line them with clear packing tape to keep the glue squeeze-out from sticking to them.
--
Art


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"stoutman"

Small voids are usually the result of too few clamps and too much pressure. (With the assumption the wood surfaces are flat.) Cauls will help.
Layout the taper before you glue. Position the layout to get the best grain pattern and avoid getting too close to the glue line. Or taper the legs then apply a 1/8" veneer over the sides with the glue line - this will leave a small glue line close to the edge.
Dave
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If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry at my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming for on the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood I'm guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would only be about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure in scrap and the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly the size you need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to not have to deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry coffee table.
todd
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The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.
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Yes, we are all ultimately at the mercy of local availability. Now I realize this might not exactly go along with the concept of building everything yourself, but http://www.osbornewood.com/1082.cfm is an option.
todd
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Hopefully this piece is going to be around long after we are gone. Take the time to do it right and purchase the correct wood. I order lots of wood that I can't get locally. Two of the best for cherry are
http://www.hearnehardwoods.com / http://www.grofflumber.com/
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Where you at? I think I have an 8' 12 or 14/4 chunk in storage. If your somewhere on the way between Edmonton to Toronto I could drop it of for you. Let me know and I can look for it this weekend. Jim
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Thanks Jim for the offer!!!
I am in High Point NC. Wall Lumber is where I usually go and they don't carry 12/4 cherry. I just found out that the Hardwood Store East of me carries 12/4 cherry at $9.05 bd/ft.
I am going to cruise over there tomorrow morning!
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So did I. It's well worth the few extra dollars to get the 12/4. Laminated legs look like...mmm..laminated legs.
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Thanks to all that responded. You guys convinced me that I shouldn't settle for the lamination route!
I am in High Point NC. Wall Lumber is where I usually go and they don't carry 12/4 cherry. The biggest is 8/4. I am not sure why they wouldn't carry a12/4 of a very popular furniture making lumber. I can understand not having zebra wood in 12/4, but CHERRY???
I just found out that the Hardwood Store East of me carries 12/4 cherry at $9.05 bd/ft. I am going to cruise over there tomorrow morning!
Thanks again...
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Stoutman
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When you're there, can you check if they have any veneer? They don't list it on their website, but I thought I saw some last time I was there. I'm looking for birds-eye or tiger maple. I can order it from lots of places online, but I'd prefer to examine each piece closely before buying.
Has the new little guy arrived yet?
Josh
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Sorry. I didnt see your post until I got back!

Yes. 9lbs 1 oz. All he does is eat, sleep, poop, pee and cry and c r y and C R Y!!! :)
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.. and, getting down to practical basics, that's all they do for the next 21 years.
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