Cheap Table saw question

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There are always people wanting to upgrade their saws. Why not post a table saw wanted thread?
You don't want a new saw that sells for $100.
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Boy did I chuckle. Porch steps and shelving. Ok. Trebuchets and catapults got me going.
On 26 Sep 2006 12:19:42 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 00:37:24 GMT, Jim Behning

Be nice, Jim... lol https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/trebs.htm
Some of us just like to hurl once in a while... without drinking.. *g*
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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mac davis wrote:

And you thought you'd have a problem getting your logs over the border...
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hmm... good idea, Barry... too bad the shop is packed... damn!
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I know in Virginia we have a paper called the Trading Post. Its like a huge garage sale w/out going to the garage sale. Also find a local woodworking guild, they could point you to a good used saw. Please stay away from the $100 saw, take lessons learned from others and myself. Stay away !
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I know in Virginia we have a paper called the Trading Post. Its like a huge garage sale w/out going to the garage sale. Also find a local woodworking guild, they could point you to a good used saw. Please stay away from the $100 saw, take lessons learned from others and myself. Stay away !
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Also check out the craigslist for your local area, and look for local "forsale" newsgroups.
Clint
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I'll second that suggestion for Craigslist. Seems like, at least in my area, there's always someone getting rid of some type of Craftsman table saw or radial arm saw, and often in the $50-$150 price range. I've never owned a Craftsman saw, so I don't about the quality of them, but presumably a used one that hasn't been abused would be a decent tool
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On 26 Sep 2006 12:19:42 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

For the stuff you plan on doing, (I build trebs too) I'd start with a low end CMS (compound miter saw) here's an affordable one at your favorite borg*g* http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId6704-67702-C10FCE&lpage=none
I was planning on a table saw for my shop when I stumbled on a used Radial Arm Saw for $50 at a garage sale... between my CMS and RAS, I get along pretty well..
If you want to limit your spending, think smaller... I'd pick a CMS over a benchtop table saw most times... Also, making a rolling stand with folding wings is a fun project and you'll still be using that stand after replacing your CMS and buying a real table saw... YMWV Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

The cheap end of the table saw market is also the most unsafe. When I first became interested in woodworking, I bought a contractors saw at Home Depot for $159. It was unstable, the fence was horrendous, kickback was inevitable, it stalled whenver I needed to rip some wood, etc. I appreciate that $1,000 or more for a decent table saw with a cast iron table is a big bite. But I have learned that the cheap stuff is also the most unsafe stuff. And these things are't toys.
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warbler wrote:

Good lord. What saw was that? I've got a benchtop TS that came in at about that price, and after proper setup, it has none of those problems. The blade and fence were out of whack from the factory, but once those were adjusted, it has never given me a problem.
The only safety issues I have are: The splitter/guard is a pain, prompting me to seldom use it; and the throat plate is crap, which can cause problems on very thin rips.
I really can't agree with all these posts that say a $100 Shopmaster saw is useless. Granted, it is only what it is, but it's far from useless. And I can't agree that a circ saw is any substitute for even a cheap benchtop TS. For cutting big panels, yes, OK. For repeatable, accurate cuts of small to medium-sized parts, no way, not even close.
And there are $200-ish saws that get you into the neighborhood of contractor saw capability for 30%-40% of the price. They are nowhere near as durable or pleasant to use as the real thing, but for us weekend warriors, there is a *big* difference between $180 and $580, and if you happen to have the $180 in your pocket, the benchtop saw will get you cutting today. Then one day you can spring for a real saw.
There are people out there making houses full of cabinets and furniture with these little saws. Some of them really aren't bad.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

while most of the posts say it isn't possible, I'll give you a solution that can be summer up in two words.
buy used.
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On Tue, 26 Sep 2006 12:19:42 -0700, wylie72 wrote:

Wylie -- Keep yer eyes peeled for a Craftsman 10" table saw at the garage & basement sales around you. They can be had for $100-150 or so. They have cast iron tops with steel extensions. Try to wiggle the blade arbor ... you shouldn't be able to. If you can, leave you money in your pocket and keep walking. The bearings / arbor are shot. They can be fixed, but unless the owner gave you the saw free and hauled it over to your house for gas money, the repair would not make financial sense.
Plan on spending a 'fun & educational' day adjusting the trunnion so that the blade is parrallel to the miter slots and part of another hour getting the fence to match the same side of the same miter slot. Hard to be too fussy here ...
You will get all kinds of kick-back from the list about buying this saw ... but not from the saw if you tune it properly as suggested above and then use it following standard safe technique.
AFTER you get it properly adjusted (the most likely reason the former owner is getting rid of it!) plan to spend cash money on a couple of good blades ... the Dewalt 40 tooth runs about $40 and will give you a -very- nice cut. Spend more, get more ... but I'd have to see some mighty compelling reason ON PAPER AND ON WOOD before I busted loose with as much as $60 for a TS blade.
I have one of the Rigid 10" bench saws and it works okay mounted in a wheelbarrow for outdoors stuff, but the table is too small, in my opinion, for safety if doing anything beyond short cross-cutting. It will handle a 6" wide piece ... but I am not comfortable feeding it one.
On the Rigid the blade ... the part that rips flesh from your fingers and your hands from your arms ... is pretty much the only part that is normal sized. Everything else reminds me of the sort of saw used for making houses -- for Barbie dolls.
The above are only my subjective opinions. I'ved never owned a better saw than the Craftsman so I will admit to not knowing what I am missing. But I can do good work with my Craftsman and neither my rosewood nor my pine can read the label. It's probably not a good saw for high production or long rips in thick pieces of ironwood ... but you aren't doing production in any sort of wood. It's too loud to leave running all day ... so (duh!) turn it off when you aren't actually using it.
Adding a 'la-de-da' fence might be a worthwhile upgrade at some point intermediate between the time you throw the Craftsman over a bridge and the day you buy a saw with a landing deck for a table and 3 miles of wiring to power a whole bank of sparkely lights. ;-)
By the time you add the fancy-dancy fence, you'll know why you need it and you'll have plenty of both time and experience to help you buy that landing deck, if you EVER feel the need to. It is my contention that paying attention to the stock Craftsman fence will make you a more skilled sawyer than having a fence that does not even ask you to pay attention to your business.
Bill
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the $100 range and under.<<<
Keep an eye on estate sales, every now and then a 10" craftsman will show up in that price range. Be sure the fence, blade guard and miter gauge are still with the saw. Hold out for a belt drive. RM~
PS, An estate sale is a sale when somebody else sells somebody else's stuff and they don't have a clue as to what it's worth. I recently paid $20 for a complete Dayton 6X48 belt/disc sander with stand and $30 for a new (still in box) 16" variable speed Delta scroll saw at an estate sale.
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Rob Mills wrote:

Yesterday I attended a guy's stuff auction (vehicles and tools) in upstate New Hampshire. I scored a router and two pad sanders for $40 total. My brother scored a milling machine for $25. Getting that into the pickup was interesting. Couple of 10" Craftsman table saws went for well under $100. A nice 10" Royobi table saw went for $25-$50. Lots of Snap-On and Greelee stuff. Lots of pure junk too. Four nice fiberglass boats in the 19 to 23 foot range went for $1200 each. An 01 Deville didn't sell cause no one raised the reserve price of $4000. You might look around for an auction place in your area.
David Starr
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upstate New Hampshire. I scored a router and two pad sanders for $40 total. My brother scored a milling machine for $25. <<<
Now that's my kind of shopping. Did they give green stamps? :) RM~
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