Can someone recommend an inexpensive fingerjoint router bit?


There are 1/4" and 1/2" shank ones on eBay for around $20. There are also ones from Freude and CMT that are over $100. Can anyone make a recommendation based on personal experience?
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P1nZ wrote:

project and you might not use it again I would not spend $100. If it's for a production run I might look into a higher quality bit. I have used a lot of pricecutter and MLCS bits without problems. They work well and no where near the price of CMT bits. I have never bought bits from ebay.
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P1nZ wrote:

In general, the less expensive router bits wear out faster and sometimes don't give you as nice of a cut. The cheaper ones are sometimes high speed steel (inferior) instead of carbide also
It all depends on your future plans for the bit. I've bought a $5 cheapo bits for a task that I thought I'd only need them for once. Later, I've found out that I'm better off just getting a quality bit (because the cheapy one ends up getting used more often).
Check out Jesada's website. They are high quality. I think their 20% sale is still going on as well.. go to www.jesada.com .. it will redirect you to razor tools. I see they have a finger joint bit for $82.. so fro 20% off, that would be about $65. Nice compromise, and they make good stuff, IMO. (I'd give you the direct link, but it doesn't seem to work.. on the left, go to Router Bits-> joinery bits.)
Lastly, I would be very leary of buying a no name router bit on ebay. Sometimes you can get a good deal on a brand name bit on ebay, but you might be paying $20 for a poor quality imported bit that sells for $1.
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bf wrote: ...

HSS steel isn't _necessarily_ inferior to carbide at all. It won't keep an edge in abrasive material or stand up to manmade materials well, granted, but HSS can be sharpened to a much sharper edge than can carbide and will consequently be able to produce a much better finish on difficult woods. Point being, all generalities are, in general, false... :)
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dpb wrote:

That's true.. I've just found most cheap HSS router bits to have a short lifespan and give inferior cuts. It's not a deal when the bit goes dull quickly and burns your project. I don't have the skill to sharpen my own bits, so that ability doesn't help me much.
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"P1nZ" wrote...

I've got one that I'd be happy to trade. Used it on EWP a decade ago, haven't used it since.
Let's see: It comes in a black plastic box, sez ADJUSTABLE FINGER JOINT 1-9/16" X 1-1/4" Made in Taiwan. Inside, looks like it's in good shape, has a 1/2" shank. Instruction booklet shows what cutters to add for different wood thicknesses from 7/16 to 1 3/8, and explains how to get a tight fit. Includes an unused spare cutter (if one gets damaged) and shims to compensate if the cutter is sharpened. Bearing spins freely. Worked fine, iirc. Has part number 191-2502 and a list of replacement parts, but no indication of where to get those parts.
Got anything to trade? I could use cutters for a Stanley #45, lathe chisels, make an offer if you would like.
-- Timothy Juvenal www.tjwoodworking.com
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Hambone Slim wrote:

Haven't used finger joint bits in particular, but 2 companies I have experience with are MLCS (mlcswoodworking.com) and Infinity (infinitytools.com). MLCS is quite inexpensive, always offers free shipping, has great customer service and a great guarantee, but doesn't last quite as long as some of the nicer brands in my experience. I've found Infinity to be a step or so up from there, still not as expensive as say Amana or Whiteside, but I'd consider them excellent quality bits. Also great customer service, and they offer $3 off all internet orders. If you really think you'll only use it once or twice, I'd go with MLCS - much better quality than the cheapo ebay/no-name-chinese bits, but not too expensive. Good luck, Andy
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P1nZ wrote:

I bought the one on ebay, and have used it a few times (on osage orange, cherry and maple) and it did great. It has carbide tips and is adjustable based on the thickness of the wood. A finger joint bit takes practice no matter which one you buy. Make sure you have 'practice' wood before you do your project.
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The cleanest finger joints that I've made weren't made with a router bit. I tried cutting them with several different bits but never got the quality of cuts that I was looking for. I now use Freud's finger joint saw blade and get perfect finger joints on my table saw.
--
Charley

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Actually those would be called box joints. Finger joints are tapered, wider at the base and thin at the ends.
Finger joints http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/router_bits/Router_Bits/Finger_Joint/html/Finger_Joint_1.html
Box joint Blade http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/sawblades/Dadoes/html/Dadoes_1.html
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On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 14:11:29 GMT, "Leon"

For box joints I use a four flute carbide end mill with a sacrificial board on the bit exit side of the board. End mills are very cheap compared to router bits. You might have to get a shank adapter to use some of the sizes out there.
Have a look at Enco machine tools.
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I knew that! I don't know why I got the idea that he wanted to make box joints. Must be old age. . A finger joint is made with a special router bit that makes tapered fingers. They aren't box joints.
Thanks for correcting me Leon.
--
Charley

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Well Charley, that distinction is often mixed up like Plate Joiner and Plate Jointer, and I often refer to them as box/finger joints. Sometimes if you don't say it wrong, no one knows what you are talking about. Bigger than Dallas Leigh Jigs call their F1 Box Joint Template the F1 Finger Joint Template. LOL
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