project and you might not use it again I would not spend $100. If it's
for a production run I might look into a higher quality bit. I have used
a lot of pricecutter and MLCS bits without problems. They work well and
no where near the price of CMT bits. I have never bought bits from ebay.
In general, the less expensive router bits wear out faster and
sometimes don't give you as nice of a cut. The cheaper ones are
sometimes high speed steel (inferior) instead of carbide also
It all depends on your future plans for the bit. I've bought a $5
cheapo bits for a task that I thought I'd only need them for once.
Later, I've found out that I'm better off just getting a quality bit
(because the cheapy one ends up getting used more often).
Check out Jesada's website. They are high quality. I think their 20%
sale is still going on as well.. go to www.jesada.com .. it will
redirect you to razor tools. I see they have a finger joint bit for
$82.. so fro 20% off, that would be about $65. Nice compromise, and
they make good stuff, IMO. (I'd give you the direct link, but it
doesn't seem to work.. on the left, go to Router Bits-> joinery bits.)
Lastly, I would be very leary of buying a no name router bit on ebay.
Sometimes you can get a good deal on a brand name bit on ebay, but you
might be paying $20 for a poor quality imported bit that sells for $1.
HSS steel isn't _necessarily_ inferior to carbide at all. It won't
keep an edge in abrasive material or stand up to manmade materials
well, granted, but HSS can be sharpened to a much sharper edge than can
carbide and will consequently be able to produce a much better finish
on difficult woods. Point being, all generalities are, in general,
That's true.. I've just found most cheap HSS router bits to have a
short lifespan and give inferior cuts. It's not a deal when the bit
goes dull quickly and burns your project.
I don't have the skill to sharpen my own bits, so that ability doesn't
help me much.
I've got one that I'd be happy to trade. Used it on EWP a decade ago,
haven't used it since.
It comes in a black plastic box, sez ADJUSTABLE FINGER JOINT 1-9/16" X
1-1/4" Made in Taiwan. Inside, looks like it's in good shape, has a 1/2"
shank. Instruction booklet shows what cutters to add for different wood
thicknesses from 7/16 to 1 3/8, and explains how to get a tight fit.
Includes an unused spare cutter (if one gets damaged) and shims to
compensate if the cutter is sharpened. Bearing spins freely. Worked fine,
iirc. Has part number 191-2502 and a list of replacement parts, but no
indication of where to get those parts.
Got anything to trade? I could use cutters for a Stanley #45, lathe
chisels, make an offer if you would like.
Haven't used finger joint bits in particular, but 2 companies I have
experience with are MLCS (mlcswoodworking.com) and Infinity
(infinitytools.com). MLCS is quite inexpensive, always offers free
shipping, has great customer service and a great guarantee, but doesn't
last quite as long as some of the nicer brands in my experience. I've
found Infinity to be a step or so up from there, still not as expensive
as say Amana or Whiteside, but I'd consider them excellent quality
bits. Also great customer service, and they offer $3 off all internet
If you really think you'll only use it once or twice, I'd go with MLCS
- much better quality than the cheapo ebay/no-name-chinese bits, but
not too expensive.
I bought the one on ebay, and have used it a few times (on osage
orange, cherry and maple) and it did great. It has carbide tips and is
adjustable based on the thickness of the wood. A finger joint bit
takes practice no matter which one you buy. Make sure you have
'practice' wood before you do your project.
The cleanest finger joints that I've made weren't made with a router bit. I
tried cutting them with several different bits but never got the quality of
cuts that I was looking for. I now use Freud's finger joint saw blade and
get perfect finger joints on my table saw.
"P1nZ" < email@example.com> wrote in message
Actually those would be called box joints. Finger joints are tapered, wider
at the base and thin at the ends.
Box joint Blade
For box joints I use a four flute carbide end mill with a sacrificial
board on the bit exit side of the board. End mills are very cheap
compared to router bits. You might have to get a shank adapter to use
some of the sizes out there.
Have a look at Enco machine tools.
I knew that! I don't know why I got the idea that he wanted to make box
joints. Must be old age.
A finger joint is made with a special router bit that makes tapered fingers.
They aren't box joints.
Thanks for correcting me Leon.
"Leon" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
Well Charley, that distinction is often mixed up like Plate Joiner and Plate
Jointer, and I often refer to them as box/finger joints. Sometimes if you
don't say it wrong, no one knows what you are talking about. Bigger than
Dallas Leigh Jigs call their F1 Box Joint Template the F1 Finger Joint
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