calling all caul users

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On 11/6/2015 3:59 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

They don't need to be hard, or strong. I am using 2x4's cut in half, and then put a fair curve as best I could on mine. I use them a lot. It lowers the number of clamps, and provides a more even glue up.
--
Jeff

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On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 16:51:19 -0500

douglas fir or hemlock or something else i always presume 2x4 is doug fir but you never know

this is what caught my eye in the catalog but the price was laughable
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On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 12:59:36 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:

I use the 4' 2x2s meant for porch railings because they tend to be pretty straight. I taper them with a hand plane. One stroke each way from near the middle to the ends, then a few inches further from the middle, and so forth - about 4 strokes to get to a foot long for the last stroke.
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On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 00:09:15 +0000 (UTC)

sounds simple enough what type wood did you use
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On Sun, 08 Nov 2015 09:33:17 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:

Redwood. Easier to plane than the SPF, usually straighter, and soft enough to not damage what's being clamped.
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On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 19:04:47 +0000 (UTC)

will have to try this out i have some redwood needing a purpose in life
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On 11/9/2015 5:28 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

durable, your words.
Now redwood will work, a very soft wood.
Redwood is approximately 3 times softer than hard maple.
Rather than use the more expensive redwood you might consider white pine or red cedar. Both are similar hardness as redwood and much less expensive. I would save the redwood for something nicer.
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On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 12:59:36 -0800, Electric Comet

sides (the Ash I have is fairly rough), stained (to make 'em pretty), and several coats of poly (makes scraping glue easy). They're drilled for 3/8" carriage bolts and wingnuts.

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On 11/6/2015 11:07 PM, krw wrote:

"pretty" What the hell for??? I covered mine with packing tape on the curved side to prevent glue from sticking.
--
Jeff

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wrote:

Why not? Wood should be pretty. ;-)

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On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 10:49:35 -0500

not a bad idea simple and cheap and effective
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On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 23:07:10 -0500

and how about the curve did you just eyeball it
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On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 09:30:48 -0800, Electric Comet

need, though I'd like to make a few sets that are.

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Thanks for sharing the information. I never saw cauls used before so I did a little googling.
http://blog.woodcraft.com/2012/02/bowclamp-is-a-good-caul/
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"Casper" wrote:

See Cambers on abpw.
Lew
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On Sat, 07 Nov 2015 11:37:42 -0500

they are an interesting addition to the clamping phase of woodwork
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Like others have said, I don't think the curve is critical. You just want a slight belly in the middle (*).

Well, you don't want them so hard they mar whatever it is you're clamping. And you want them to flex when you clamp.
I think most people do what I do, and use whatever scraps of wood are the right length to make cauls as needed. And then save them to use again.
John
(* if you make a fair curve by eye, it will be elliptical, or darn close. Just the way our brains work)
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On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 16:55:02 -0000 (UTC)

the curve is critical and may depend on the caul material it is a fine line between being useful and not working correctly
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On 11/8/2015 11:27 AM, Electric Comet wrote:

That would be my thoughts and the size/length of the area to be clamped IMHO would also change the dynamics.
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Well lets see here. You have never used a caul, and just recently discovered that the word exists. Yet somehow you have determined that the dimension of the curve is "critical" and presumably must be correct to within thousandths of an inch.
Next you'll be telling us they need to be stored in humidity controlled lockers, so that the precise dimension of the curve doesn't change with the weather.
John
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