They don't need to be hard, or strong.
I am using 2x4's cut in half, and then put a fair curve as best I could
on mine. I use them a lot.
It lowers the number of clamps, and provides a more even glue up.
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 12:59:36 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:
I use the 4' 2x2s meant for porch railings because they tend to be pretty
straight. I taper them with a hand plane. One stroke each way from near
the middle to the ends, then a few inches further from the middle, and so
forth - about 4 strokes to get to a foot long for the last stroke.
durable, your words.
Now redwood will work, a very soft wood.
Redwood is approximately 3 times softer than hard maple.
Rather than use the more expensive redwood you might consider white pine
or red cedar. Both are similar hardness as redwood and much less
expensive. I would save the redwood for something nicer.
Like others have said, I don't think the curve is
critical. You just want a slight belly in the
Well, you don't want them so hard they mar whatever
it is you're clamping. And you want them to flex
when you clamp.
I think most people do what I do, and use whatever
scraps of wood are the right length to make cauls
as needed. And then save them to use again.
(* if you make a fair curve by eye, it will be
elliptical, or darn close. Just the way our
Well lets see here. You have never used a caul, and just
recently discovered that the word exists. Yet somehow
you have determined that the dimension of the curve is
"critical" and presumably must be correct to within
thousandths of an inch.
Next you'll be telling us they need to be stored in
humidity controlled lockers, so that the precise
dimension of the curve doesn't change with the weather.
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