Stopped by HD yesterday for an estimate on some butcher block countertop.
They quoted me ~$300 for a 9' laminated piece, w/ backsplash & dripedge.
I believe it was from Vanguard???
I was told the solid variety would be around $800.
So, I'm considering building one myself.
I was thinking about mixing two species of lighter colored woods, white oak
& maple possiblly?
Start with 6/4 stock, cut into 1" strips, alternate strips, glue & clear
Since food contact is obvious, what type(s) of glue & clear finish is
Is glue and clamping sufficient?
I have some Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat sanding sealer, can I start with
Would a solid (single species) backsplash
Any other suggestions are welcome,
Actually, all drying finishes are safe for food contact when dry. If you plan
to do any cutting on your countertop, then a film finish like the "Salad Bowl
Finish" will get damaged and be a lot of work to repair. Mineral oil or a
mineral oil and beeswax mixture would be a better choice, since you can wipe
more on when needed. I also like to use unprocessed walnut oil on wooden
eating implements such as bowls and spoons. If you always use a cutting board,
the Salad Bowl Finish is ok.
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On 11 Jan 2004 12:33:11 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (J Pagona aka Y.B.)
Not all of them. I certainly wouldn't trust lead-dried linseed.
When talking about "food safe", then it also matters what the food is.
Some foods (rhubarb, citrus fruit, salt or vinegar) can be much more
active on a surface than others. I can think of plenty of finishes
that I'd trust when full of plain lettuce, but not with a dressed
Years ago I made one by gluing 1x2 maple and then taking the piece to a
local shop where it was sanded in their wide belt sander. Turned out
great. I never have had any problem with any separation.
I kept mine looking good with an occasional application of mineral oil,
although I always wondered whether this would really be necessary given
the maple being not so porous. I certainly wouldn't put any solvent based
sealer on it.
If I were to make it again, I might get classy and put in some contrasting
wood strips, perhaps of walnut or cherry. Might make my cooking turn out
classy as well.
A 9' piece of 24" wide maple butcherblock should not be anywhere near $800.
I stopped in to the new Woodcraft near me a couple days ago, and they had 24
x 84 workbench tops, laminated/finger jointed maple, on sale for (IIRC)
about $379. It will be a lot of work to make your own, and unless you have
ready access to a *lot* of clamps, a way to surface the block when it's
glued up, and the materials for cheap, it won't be worth it. I know with a
9' length, I'd be needing 9'+ lengths of maple as well, because I wouldn't
want end grain butt joints in the middle of the countertop.
I wouldn't recommend oak, unless it's white oak, and that may not go too
well visually with the maple.
Try restaurant supply places, as well as Grizzly. I believe they sell maple
Strength of an end grain but joint in a row of butcher block is not an issue,
as long as the joint is lapped sufficiently on both sides with a solid piece of
wood. The trick is to keep all of the joints at least 6" apart in adjoining
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I bought the maple for an 80"x25"x1.5" from Croffwoodmills.com for about $175
shipped. I bought a finished 72x30 workbench top from Grainger for $200.
I like the one I made better than the one I bought but that may just be me ;-)
You may want to look for a Lumber Liquidators near you. They sell butcher
block counter top more reasonably than that.
Next question: How soon do you need it done? Making your own will take
you a while. Not every one who uses MY kitchen is willing/able to wait for
me to 'do it up pretty'.
Patriarch, blessed with a very patient wife in MANY regards.
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